Hello,
I joined the list after talking to a weaver & dyer at the Southwest School of Art & Craft in San Antonio last month who pointed me to some web links that address the production of cloth. I was in hope of finding someone in North America (preferably) or Europe who I could talk to regarding construction, materials & techniques that would have been used for the manufacture of military insignia in Germany during the 1920's - 1940's. I am part of a small circle of serious collectors & students who study the cloth, metallic piping, metallic embroidery & cotton embroidery used in these pieces. Although it may sound paradoxical, the quality of work in these pieces is very sophisticated and quite beautiful.
If anyone could suggest a source I would really appreciate it.
And no, we don't have shaved heads, wear combat boots or show up at ignorant, misguided, hate-filled demonstrations or sport confederate flags on our cars.

Thank You
Tom Chaney
Oklahoma City


From: Lauren Walker <[EMAIL PROTECTED]>
Reply-To: Historical Costume <[EMAIL PROTECTED]>
To: Historical Costume <[EMAIL PROTECTED]>
Subject: Re: [h-cost]Theatrer vs Historic (was:new Butterick pattern  5061)
Date: Thu, 3 May 2007 19:47:26 -0400

It's funny, but actually, studying historic costume has made me appreciate what ELSE theatrical and movie costumers are doing more than I did before I knew where to hunt down period-correct sartorial information. When I'm dressing for re-enacting, I strive for ever more accurate accouterment, because the story we are telling as re- enactors is either This Is What It Was Like or sometimes This Is How It Differs From Now. Strict authenticity is the point in that effort. And I have to say that often what is most authentic is not to my own personal, modern taste, so I have to tell my personal, modern taste to shut up.

But the story in a play or movie is usually one that reflects a moral issue that resonates with the modern audience. And what theatrical costumers do, sometimes breathtakingly, is to evoke the historic period while also using visual clothing symbolism that will enhance the characterizations in modern eyes. Thus, as someone on this list pointed out a while ago, the hair and makeup of the romantic leads will usually be the least authentic, for they must telegraph beauty and desirability and probably moral good as well to the modern audience. (Though I've recently been impressed by the costuming for the Showtime series "Dexter" -- how do you dress a sociopathic serial killer who is attempting to live by a moral code in order to pass for normal?) Even when using modern-day wardrobe for modern characters, the way they select color and cut paints a character portrait with amazing nuance. With historical stuff, they have to work with the double vision of what the characters might have worn in period and what will look, to modern viewers, like what the characters might have worn. Because most viewers are not going to tell their personal, modern taste to shut up.

But then they get us, complaining because the costumes go beyond This Is What It Was Like and try to help tell the story!

Anyway as for the Butterick pattern, I think the answer to "what era is it?" might be, "whatever year you want it to be." The jackets look kind of 1940s/50s boudoir to me.

Lauren
Lauren M. Walker
[EMAIL PROTECTED]



On May 3, 2007, at 3:51 PM, Ruth Anne Baumgartner wrote:


But the biggest issue, to my mind, is what the costume communicates to the audience, because that's the ultimate question for any aspect of a theatrical production.

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