The closest that I can think of, would be this book (one of my faves): "Embroideries ans Samplers from Islamic Egypt" by Marianne Ellis. (Ashmolean Museum, University of Oxford, 2001). ISBN: 1-85444-135-3 (for the paperback version). It's an examination of embroidered textiles, most of which (they think) were used for clothing and light furnishings, and examples range from the Tulunid period (late 9th century) through the Mamluk period (up to 1517). There are a fair number of pieces containing surface embroidery stitches (split stitch, chain stitch, stem stitch, cross stitch, etc.), but a significant number of the pieces comprise some form of monochrome embroidery--double-running stitch, pattern darning, pulled-thread and drawn-thread work, etc. There's a rather nice sampler, for instance, which has been carbon-dated to the 14th century, and which was done in blue silk (and plain linen) threads on linen, and uses double-running stitches and drawn-thread work. There's also a fragment of something they're assuming was part of a towel border, and it's done in blue silk, using double-running stitch. (a repeating pattern of birds, late 14th-early 15th century). There are also a couple of pieces clearly meant to be shirts/tunics, but the embroidery is being used on the sleeves, body, etc., and not so much on collar and cuffs. It's clearly not an examination of European textiles and embroidery, but the author does go to some effort to point out stylistic connections between these bits and later European usage. (Theory being <short version> that these Islamic-based styles and techniques spread into Europe on trade routes.) --Sue
----- Original Message ----- From: "Robin Netherton" <[EMAIL PROTECTED]> To: "Historical Costume" <[EMAIL PROTECTED]> Sent: Saturday, May 05, 2007 10:02 PM Subject: RE: [h-cost] Medieval embroidery > > On Sat, 5 May 2007, Susan B. Farmer wrote: > > > There are lots of examples from this period both in English and > > Italian art where the collar/cuffs are embroidered with the > > implication that both sides will be seen -- more can be forthcoming if > > you need additional examples. I don't know what the earliest such > > example is, though. > > I've sent my contact the images already cited as proof-of-concept for > Tudor period, and the information posted here that there were stitches > that could be reversible. That's a good start, but for publication > purposes she needs a published source on the stitch types for that period > (as seen in real examples); is there a book that examines historic > stitching with close regard to period, e.g. not just saying "this stitch > is medieval" but rather "these stitches appear in X type of artifacts from > Y time and Z place"? > > Holy grail here would be examples of embroidery from c. 1400 clearly meant > to be viewed on the reverse. Possibly not available, though. Extant pieces > from 1400 are a lot rarer than from 1550. > > But it's not my area so I don't know all the standard sources the way I do > in my own specialties. > > --Robin _______________________________________________ h-costume mailing list [email protected] http://mail.indra.com/mailman/listinfo/h-costume
