lots of fun embroidery discussion that I missed because I'm not online over the weekend snipped for length, sigh :):
> Monochrome embroidery is actually considerably older than the 1400s... Sue, any insights into embroidery meant to be seen from both sides, as on cuffs or collars? That's the real issue here -- how early that concept might apply. --Robin > Blackwork is my thing. I taught it back at the Known World Art/Sci > Symposium in Orlando where you taught the Gothic fitted gown a few > years ago. It is more correctly known as "monochrome embroidery" and > was mentioned by Chaucer in Canterbury Tales. Chaucer mentions her > collar with blackwork inside and outside. I'm aware of this reference -- it comes up a lot in discussions of 14th c. embroidery -- and I always pictured something like blackwork when I heard it, as it is black silk embroidery on a white smock, described as being all around the collar. But I'm wondering if that's the right interpretation of the following line, which indicates that the embroidery is "withinne and eek withoute." I can't think of a better way to read it, but smocks in this period were not designed to show outside the dress, and did not have necklines that could be turned outward -- that I know of -- to show the inside. Anyone have a better reading? --Robin >>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>> Robin, If you are needing 14th C the best references I can think of are Chaucer and the Mamluk embroidery. There is a new article on Mamluk work by Kathleen Staples in the newest issue of Sampler and Antigue Needlework Quarterly (http://www.just-crossstitch.com/sanq.htm). I just got it this weekend but have not read it yet. If I see something that might help I will drop you a line. And unfortunately the best argument I can think of against what it looks like you are trying to find are the fashion elements themselves of this era, reversible chemise cuffs or necklines don't spring to mind. Perhaps finding documentation for elements that would showcase reversible embroidery is another path to try. Catherine _______________________________________________ h-costume mailing list [email protected] http://mail.indra.com/mailman/listinfo/h-costume
