----- Original Message ----- From: "Saragrace Knauf" <[EMAIL PROTECTED]>
To: "h-costume" <[EMAIL PROTECTED]>
Sent: Thursday, May 17, 2007 3:03 AM
Subject: [h-cost] Question about early 19th century underclothing.



Hi, I have been asked to create an under dress for this gown for the Phoenix Art Museum. http://www.coraginsburg.com/catalogues/2004/cat2004pg10&11.htm
As you can see, it is pictured with a white under dress. My questions are the following.

Would there be a difference between an under dress (it doesn't look as though it was ever lined) and an actual chemise?
I was thinking perhaps someone would wear a simple chemise, then perhaps a corset, and then the under dress, and finally a dress?

I am creating the under dress on a Kyoto dress form, which is solid. The dress fits it, but the breasts are rather large compared to the rest of the dummy and the only way I can get it to fit properly is to either create darts or gather it under the breasts. Would the under dress be tailored like the dress? (I have Arnold's patterns of fashion of this period and have ordered Hunisett's book for the same time frame to see if it has any further clues.)

If there were an under dress, would it necessarily have been white and not a similar color to the gown?

Thanks for pointers you can give me.

Saragrace Knauf

I would suggest a bodiced petticoat over the chemise and corset, you can see one costumer's version here http://www.koshka-the-cat.com/regency_underthings.html and instructions to make a bust supporting variety here http://www.sensibility.com/pattern/petticoat.htm and a photo of a real original petticoat in the Museum of Fine Arts, Boston, collection http://preview.tinyurl.com/2quokm
Elizabeth
--------------------------------------------
Elizabeth Walpole
Canberra Australia
ewalpole[at]tpg.com.au
http://au.geocities.com/amiperiodornot/

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