I've heard people talk about making hats out of theatrical buckram. But I didn't think 
that Buckram, as we know it, existed in the 16th century. If not, then what DID exist as 
"Buckram"? What were the internal structure of hats made out of?

As far as I can tell there is buckram (buckeram, bokeram etc) which is
a linen cloth and then there is stiffened buckram (buckeram, bokeram
etc) which is stiffened with glue in much the same way as modern
buckram is. There is probably a difference in glue type and weave
though;)

Bokeram as a lining for a dress:
Part XII: Privy Purse Expenses of Elizabeth of York: Entries #32 through 41.
http://www.r3.org/bookcase/wardrobe/ward12.html
"Itm....the same day to Henry Bryan for xvij yerdes of blake velvet
for a gowne for the Quene at x s. vj d. the yerde viij li. xviij s. vj
d. Itm for xiij yerdes of blake satten delivered to Johnson for a
riding gowne for the Quene at ix s. the yerde C xvij s. Itm for a
yerde di quarter of blake velvet for an edge and cuffes for the same
gowne at xj s. vj d. the yerde xiij s. Itm for vij yerdes di of blake
bokeram for lynyng of the same gowne at ix d. the yerde v s. viij d.
ob. Itm for a nayle of sarcenet for fentes for the same gowne iiij d.
and for an elle quarter of canvase for lynyng of the same gowne vj d.
Sm{a} ----------xv li. xiiij s. xj d. ob."
The style at the time doesn't suggest that this would be stiffened
buckram. The canvas above could also be for interlining the body for
support.


Canvas is also mentioned for a lining:
Part VIII: Privy Purse Expenses of Elizabeth of York: Entries #1 through 7.
http://www.r3.org/bookcase/wardrobe/ward9.html
" Itm for upper bodyeng sleving and lynyng of a gowne of blake velvet
for the Quene of Scottes xx d. Itm for canvas to the same iij d."
(btw I love this  "Itm for a grete basket for the Quenes stuf vj d""
for her "stuff")

Mary's wardrobe accounts apparently include a fine paste buckram for a
farthingale I think....

Michaela de Bruce
http://glittersweet.com
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