Where did you get it?

-----Original Message-----
From: [EMAIL PROTECTED] [mailto:[EMAIL PROTECTED] On
Behalf Of E House
Sent: Thursday, May 17, 2007 10:35 AM
To: Historical Costume
Subject: [h-cost] not Perpignan, but... (stretchy wools)


Not too long ago I chanced on a very interesting piece of wool fabric.  It's

100% wool, but due to the way it's made, it has as much natural stretch as a

lycra/wool blend!  (Yes, I'm sure it's 100% wool.)

It's a slightly loose basket weave, but that alone isn't what makes it so 
stretchy; rather, the stretchiness seems to come from the fact that both 
warp and weft are VERY tightly twisted.  With the slightly loose weave, both

warp and weft sort of crimp up a lot more than you usually see, so when you 
pull on it, the threads straighten out temporarily.  The tightness of the 
spinning keeps the whole thing from shrinking up; the weave stays slightly 
loose.  (If it shrank at all after I washed it, the amount was too small for

me to measure.)  When pulled, it stretches to about 110%-115% of its 
original length/width.  That may not sound like much, but it's a whole lot 
when, say, you're making a supportive gown, or a pair of hose.

I'm in love with it.  I've got about 7 yds of it, and I am afraid to use it,

because my hoarding instinct says it must be saved for the exact right 
project.  (It wants to be 2 different styles of supportive undergowns, and I

think I can get both out of it, but then it'd be gone and I'd lose/gain 20 
lbs and be unable to wear them.)

But more importantly, it has completely changed my idea of how much stretch 
medieval wool fabrics might have had!  I've read archaeological reports of 
worsted textiles made from yarns spun with a high twist before; I am now 
going to go back and give them a much closer look.  Somehow, I doubt that 
the archaeologists who studied those textiles gave 'em a good stretch...

-E House



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