-----Original Message----- >From: Cat Devereaux <[EMAIL PROTECTED]> >Sent: Jun 13, 2007 4:36 PM >To: [EMAIL PROTECTED] >Subject: [h-cost] Re: Edwardian Straight Front Theory > >I needed to make a straight-front corset to go with Janet Arnold's 1901 >Ribbon Dress for my sister's wedding. I did it minus patters and mocking up >on check fabric (to keep the grain though out). Basically I worked from the >much earlier laughing moon pattern sheet (didn't have the pattern w/ me) and >"Corsets and Crinolines". If you look at the partner pieces and drawing... >the first thing you really notices is that the straight front corsets have >real HIPS! The hip area is not just an extension of smoothing the waist, >it's flaring out to embrace a "newly discovered" sexy part of the woman. ><G> > >My pieces ended up staying fairly similar on top except for sucking in the >bust lines a bit in front, and releasing out the back. > >In the bottom... that's where the magic happens. I took in as much as I >could at the waist area and release in the hip area... release to the sides >and back in a fairly even manner. It worked. That part of the body is >fleshy and you can move it around w/ just a little containment and not >tight-lacing. > >In my final... the waist area were really thin strips, the hip pieces are >giant. By the time the pattern was done, I could see why some of the >commercial manufactures went to separate hip pieces, but I had enough >interlining I felt safe. If I remember correctly, the biggest back hip >pieces had a 1:4 ration. > >Oh, while making it... I did a bit of temp boning and front and back to keep >those lines cleaner while testing the last couple of mock ups. > >I topped this off with a ruffled corset cover to help fill out the top of >the "S". My sister's hips didn't need the pad. (And to help keep the hip >line clean, I used waist bands about 2"- 4". The underskirt was a typical >gathered layered skirt with a rope kick panel at the bottom and the outer >layer was exactly from Hunissette's circular ruff petticoat > >These layers all add together to give that shape illusion... and w/o needing >to tight lace the corset. > >-Cat- > >_______________________________________________ >h-costume mailing list >h-costume@mail.indra.com >http://mail.indra.com/mailman/listinfo/h-costume
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