Thank you for all your reply's. This is a response to several people's comments from several different lists. I have looked at other's research, (Marion and Myra), but this coat seems much fuller than Myra's version. (Yes Marion, please have your husband take pictures and post them! :) The shape is more boxy looking to me.
There is such incredible variety out there on these coats; one could do a number of different things and find pictorial justification. I happen to like Kohler's ideas. And use him much the same as it sounds Katherine does. It is like a little puzzle and detective work to find the originals from which he drew his information. I'll have to get my hands on Hefner-Alteneck - I've not heard of him, but he looks like he precedes both Von Boehn and Kohler (I just realized that Kohler precedes Von Boehn and not the other way 'round - but at least he tells you where the pictures came from.) As to the origins of this garment: This is an excerpt from a paper I did a number of years ago for anyone who is interested: "Another, less exciting but very popular garment, which should be mentioned, is the "Schaube." It was so popular that it influenced foreign fashions at the time. Combined with huge sleeves and extended shoulders, this garment created an imposing figure. They clearly gave one status, so much so, that they were they made the list of demands from the peasants, during a revolt in 1524. In this case it was that they be allowed to wear a particular color of coat as the rich did. Rot hatte den Beigeschmack des Vornehmen, nur die besseren Stände konnten es tragen; als sich im Baurenkrieg dei gemeinen Leute in Langensalza empörten, lautete eine ihrer Hauptfordgerungen, sie wolten jetzt auch rote Schauben tragen wie die Reichen. (Von Boehn, Vol II, 98) Several examples of the garment "Schaube" can be seen in Figures 13 through 16. The first two are examples of German sitters. The following two are examples of foreign use. The first example is the English king, Henry the VIII, and the second, a pair of French ambassadors. Italian examples are plentiful as well. The origins of the word "Schaube" are probably French, but it was assimilated very early (13th century) and is also likely to have had the same origins as "Joppe." The following is an entry for Joppe in the Kluge Etymological Dictionary: Joppe Substantiv Femininum erweiterter Standardwortschatz regional (13. Jh.), mhd. jop(p)e, juppe (schope, schop[p]e m./f.) Entlehnung aus (älterem) it. giubba, guppa "Jacke, Wams," das seiner seits auf arab. Gubba "Obergewand mit langen Ärmeln" zurückgeht. Gleicher Herkunft ist vielleicht Schaube. Ebenso neuniederländisch jopper; Schaube. (Grimm) Oddly enough however Schaube is also very closely related to the word "Schaub." This is another word for "Garbe"; the word for "sheaf" in English. According to the OED, the origin of "sheaf" is Teutonic. The similarities between "sheaf," "sheath," "garb," "Garbe," "Schaub," and "Schaube" are difficult to ignore though none of the resources I looked at drew any of these connections." I actually like the more slim-lined version, but the fabric I have is very expensive and I want to use as much of it as possible because the leftovers would be pretty useless to me. Mine is just like this only the colorway is different. http://discountfabricsusa.stores.yahoo.net/amstvecbrbyb.html The charcoal is replaced by a deep rose or russet. The collar and some of the lining will be mink. The rest will be shot satin (synthetic - sigh) which coordinates with the rose color. I understand aversions to using real fur, but I recycle vintage items for this...little animals are already dead and gone.... Thanks for sharing.... Saragrace _______________________________________________ h-costume mailing list [email protected] http://mail.indra.com/mailman/listinfo/h-costume
