Because I spend considerable time around old books, the description
of the stains noted by the original poster (sorry, I seem to have
deleted that message) reminded me immediately of foxing on paper, and
I wonder if information on foxing might be pertinent to this discussion.
I just Googled "foxing" and "paper" and then "foxing" and "cloth."
Many entries, including (inevitably) descriptions of rare books for
sale. Among them, though, some interesting information, including the
fact that foxing does occur in cloth as well as in paper (as well as
the fact that there's still some debate about what causes foxing--
mold, or breakdown of minute particles of metal present in the fabric).
I don't consider Wikipedia definitive, but the entry is short and it
does suggest some treatments, including spot applications of diluted
hydrogen peroxide, so here's that url: http://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/
Foxing. Much more extensive information and some discussions are
maintained by palimsest.stanford.edu--if you want to read further,
you might start with this posting:
http://palimpsest.stanford.edu/byform/mailing-lists/exlibris/2003/06/
msg00157.html
--Ruth Anne Baumgartner
scholar gypsy and amateur costumer
On Jul 23, 2007, at 5:51 PM, Beverly Azizi wrote:
Below are some additional tips fro removing the mildew from your
fine fabrics. The heavier silk by the way, if died an appropriate
color would probably be fabulous for medieval and Renaissance
garments. I am thinking Italian Renaissance especially.
Beverly
Removing mildew
Clothing and household fabrics
Remove mildew spots as soon as you discover them. Do not give the
mold growth a chance to weaken or rot the material. Brush off any
surface growth outdoors to prevent scattering the mildew spores in
the house. Sun and air fabrics thoroughly. If any mildew spots
remain, treat washable articles as described below. Dry clean
nonwashable articles.
Wash mildew-stained articles at once with soap or detergent and
water. Rinse well and dry in the sun. If any stain remains, use
lemon juice and salt or another bleach. If you use a bleach, be
sure to test colored fabrics for colorfastness.
* Lemon juice and salt
* Moisten stain with a mixture of lemon juice and salt. Spread
in the sun to bleach. Rinse thoroughly.
* Peroxygen bleach
* Mix 1 to 2 tablespoons of sodium perborate or a powdered
bleach containing sodium perborate or potassium monopersulfate with
1 pint (0.47 liters) of water. Use hot water if it is safe for the
fabric; otherwise, use lukewarm water. Sponge the stain or soak the
stained area in the solution, or sprinkle the dry powder directly
on the dampened stain. Let solution or powder remain on the stain
30 minutes or longer, then rinse thoroughly. If mildew stains have
been on the fabric for some time, it may be necessary to soak the
fabric in the bleach solution overnight. Applying sodium perborate
solution at or near the boiling point may remove stubborn stains.
Be sure this treatment is safe for the fabric.
* Chlorine bleach
* Mix 2 tablespoons of liquid chlorine bleach with 1 quart (0.95
liters) of warm water. Sponge the stain or soak the stained area in
the solution. Allow the bleach to remain on the fabric from 5 to 15
minutes, then rinse. An additional soaking in weak vinegar (2
tablespoons to a cup of water) will stop further bleach action.
Never use a chlorine bleach on silk, wool or Spandex fabrics. Some
fabrics with wash-and-wear or other special finishes may be damaged
by chlorine bleaches. Articles with such finishes usually have a
warning on the label or on a hang tag attached to the garment when
it is sold.
Upholstered articles, mattresses and rugs
First, remove loose mold from outer coverings of upholstered
articles, mattresses, rugs and carpets by brushing with a broom. Do
this outdoors to prevent scattering mildew spores in the house.
Run a vacuum cleaner attachment over the surface of the article to
draw out more of the mold. Remember that the mold spores are being
drawn into the bag of the vacuum cleaner. If the appliance has a
disposable bag, remove and dispose of it immediately. If not, empty
the bag carefully (preferably outdoors) to avoid scattering mold
spores in the house.
Do everything conveniently possible to dry the article -- use an
electric heater and a fan to carry away moist air. Sun and air the
article to stop the mold growth.
If mildew remains on upholstered articles or mattresses, sponge
lightly with thick suds of soap or detergent and wipe with a clean,
damp cloth. In doing this, get as little water on the fabric as
possible so the filling does not get wet.
Another way to remove mildew on upholstered furniture is to wipe it
with a cloth moistened with diluted alcohol (1 cup denatured or
rubbing alcohol to 1 cup water). Dry the article thoroughly.
Sponge mildewed rugs and carpets with thick suds or a rug shampoo.
Then remove the suds by wiping with a cloth dampened with clear
water. Dry in the sun if possible.
Use a low-pressure spray containing a fungicide to get rid of
mildew. Respray frequently, especially in localities where mildew
is a major problem.
Vapors of paradichlorobenzene or paraformaldehyde, used in enclosed
areas, will stop mold growth. See the section "Store with a mildew
inhibitor."
If molds have grown into the inner part of an article, send it to a
reliable disinfecting and fumigating service. Such services are
often listed under "Exterminating and Fumigating" or "Pest Control"
services in the yellow pages of the telephone directory.
Leather goods
To remove mildew from leather goods, wipe with a cloth moistened
with diluted alcohol (1 cup denatured or rubbing alcohol to 1 cup
water). Dry in a current of air. If mildew remains, wash with thick
suds made from a mild soap or detergent, saddle soap, or a soap
containing a germicide or fungicide. Then wipe with a damp cloth
and dry in an airy place. Polish leather shoes and luggage with a
good wax dressing.
Shoes contaminated with fungus growth on the inside often develop
unpleasant odors, and colored mildew shows up on the inner sole and
linings and up into the toe. You can remove this kind of mildew
with low-pressure sprays especially intended for freshening shoes;
these sprays are available at shoe and department stores. Use these
products as directed.
Another way to stop mold growth in leather goods is to place the
leather goods in a container along with crystals of commercially
prepared paradichlorobenzene-paraformaldehyde. Close the container
tightly and allow the chemicals to vaporize. See the section "Store
with a mildew inhibitor."
The vapors from these chemicals are effective in killing molds that
have grown into leather, but they give no lasting protection
against future contamination. As the vapors leak out, the chemicals
must be replaced. Before using the shoes or luggage, air them
thoroughly.
Wood
Use heat and increase the air circulation to get mildewed wood as
dry as possible. Badly infected wood may need to be replaced,
preferably with wood that has been treated or that is naturally
decay-resistant.
Thoroughly clean mildewed surfaces, woodwork and other wooden parts
by scrubbing them with a mild alkali, such as washing soda or
trisodium phosphate (8 to 10 tablespoons to a gallon (3.8 liters)
of water), or with disinfectants, such as a quaternary disinfectant
or pentachlorophenate. Paint and grocery stores and janitors'
supply houses sell these products under various trade names. Rinse
the wood well with clear water and allow the wood to dry
thoroughly. Then apply a mildew-resistant paint. (See the section
"Give special care to some articles and surfaces" for precautions.)
If the mold has grown under the paint or varnish, remove all the
paint or varnish from the stained areas. Then scrub with a solution
containing 8 to 10 tablespoons of trisodium phosphate and 1 cup of
household chlorine bleach to a gallon (3.8 liters) of water.
Stronger solutions can be used if necessary. Wear rubber gloves.
If stain remains, apply oxalic acid (3 tablespoons to 1 pint (0.47
liters) of water). Caution: The acid is poisonous -- handle
carefully. Finally, rinse the surface thoroughly with clear water.
Dry well before refinishing.
Paper and books
Remove any dry, loose mold from paper with a clean, soft cloth. If
mildewed paper is damp, dry it first in an airy place. To dry
wallpaper, heat the room for several hours or even days to dry the
plaster as well as the paper. Plaster should be dried slowly to
prevent cracking.
If mildewed paper is washable, wipe it gently with a cloth wrung
out of thick soapsuds, then with clear water. Take care not to wet
the paper more than necessary. Do not scrub it. Finally pat with a
soft, dry cloth. If stains remain, bleach with a solution of a
household bleach, then sponge with a cloth wrung out of clear
water. For small stains, a commercial ink eradicator may be useful.
"Fan out" pages of books to increase air circulation. If the books
are very damp, sprinkle cornstarch or talcum powder between the
leaves to absorb the moisture. Leave starch or powder on for
several hours, then brush off. See the section "Give special care
to some articles and surfaces."
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