On Sunday 29 July 2007, otsisto wrote:
> I have not seen the sketch but does it say anywhere that there are loops at
> all on this specific dress?

The fabric remnant did not have loops on it.  However, it was buried with a 
pair of tortoise brooches, and the remains of blue linen loops were found in 
the tortoise brooches.  The summary I read suggested that the loops found in 
the brooches were similar to the linen neckline area of the underdress.  The 
location of the alleged loops was deduced from stitching holes in the 
surviving remnant.

By the way, both the English summary and the original Russian report include 
the sketch, and the photos.

> Why do you feel that all apron dresses at the 
> time had loops? Could there not have been an exception somewhere?

I'd like to note here that I've been reporting in this thread what the summary 
of the archaeologists' report said, not my own theories.  :-)  

That being said, I actually do believe that whatever their shape or cut, apron 
dresses did have loops of some kind.  I think that for the same reason the 
archaeologists who have proposed the idea do, namely, that many, many pairs 
of tortoise brooches have been found, and the ones that have textile remains 
show loops.  The loops are similar in size (about 1 cm wide) and where other 
fabric remains exist nearby, often match those remains.

I also believe that apron dresses had loops because I have made apron dresses 
with wider straps, and they don't work nearly as well.  They're harder to get 
into and out of, and they don't work as well with the tortoise brooch pins.  

Now, it's certainly true that not all women in the Viking period wore tortoise 
brooches.  There were other options for overdresses.  For instance, the woman 
in the grave at Eura, Finland, wore a peplos (which was discernible because 
part of the overfold survived).  But the brooches associated with that find 
weren't tortoise brooches--they were flat, round brooches.

I think the real question that should be asked about the Pskov find is "Was 
the large silk remnant that was found part of an apron dress or not?"  Since 
the textile does not have loops on it, and the tortoise brooches were not 
found attached to the textile, but were merely "enclosed" in it, that 
suggests but does not prove that they were worn with it as an apron dress.  
The English summary also suggests, but is not clear about whether any blue 
linen pieces matching the loops in the brooches were found attached to the 
silk (the summary says, "The blue linen base fabric to which these silk 
borders were presumably appliqued has almost completely decayed...."). 

 But it's not possible to have a meaningful debate on this question without at 
least the benefit of better photos of the large silk remnant, since the 
presence/location of stitching holes to attach loops and the presence or 
absence of linen backing are necessary clues to confirm or refute the apron 
dress theory.  I really hope a detailed writeup on this find is done on this 
fascinating find.




-- 
Cathy Raymond <[EMAIL PROTECTED]>

"You've got to have the proper amount of disrespect for what you do."  
-- George Mabry

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