Alex wrote:
> In looking at this painting of Elizabeth Vernon I had a few questions
> and wondered what other's thoughts were on some of the elements of the
> lady's costume.
>
> http://www.boughtonhouse.org.uk/htm/gallery2/paintings/countessofsoton.htm

This is not my own area so I won't try to answer, but I do want to note that 
Danielle Nunn-Weinberg, who is sometimes on this list, did a detailed study of 
these jackets, including a point-by-point analysis of the Vernon portrait, in 
volume 2 of Medieval Clothing and Textiles. The article is called "The Matron 
Goes to the Masque: The Dual Identity of the English Embroidered Jacket." I 
would strongly suggest you read this before you try to re-create anything from 
this portrait, because it's chock-full of theatrical and symbolic elements.

> and I'm guessing that construction of the embroidered jacket is
> similar to Margaret Layton (or is it Laton?)'s jacket that is still in
> the V&A and there's a portrait somewhere of her wearing said jacket.
> This jacket is dated to 1620, and Margaret's portrait to a few years
> later. Elizabeth's portrait is dated to 1600.

Danielle's article discusses (and shows a picture of) both the Laton jacket and 
the portrait, and explains the apparent discrepancies between them.

> And lastly, does anyone have leads as to what these jackets might have
> looked like before the vogue for the polychrome embroidery as seen in
> these paintings and artifacts that have all been dated to 1600 or
> later? I'm hoping to figure out what a lady in 1570-80 might have
> worn.

Danielle examined about 100 portraits showing jackets and seven extant jackets. 
10 of the portraits were painted before 1600. She doesn't have a lot of detail 
about them, but I think it's worth reading the article to get a sense of their 
line of development.

Danielle may have more to say if she's reading this.

--Robin


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