Hey Julian,

I'm right there with you!  My SCA persona, Meleri ferch Iasper ap Dafydd, is
a follower of the beloved and darn-near sainted Earl of Pembroke, the Earl
of Richmond's uncle and protector... :)  I would love to see a good study of
this period too!  I'm sure the Burgundian influences remained because of the
Yorkist duchess, but we must not discount the influence of Brittany (itself
alas probably heavily influenced by Burgundy), owing to the Exilic Years of
Henry and Earl Jasper.  From the few pics we have of Henry and his queen, we
do know the "standard silhouettes" were in operation: the skirted doublet
and over-robe (chamarre, I think?), and that French-style round cap with the
laced sides for the guys, and the kirtle along Burgundian lines but with a
more lowered waist and less bulky skirt for the ladies, with the long, slim
sleeves and the long-sided English gable hood... but there had to be more to
it all than that!  I know the excesses of Henry 8's reign and following,
where the kid blew the budget Dad had left him, have taken most of the
attention--and I'm good with that because I love the classic 1520s and 30s
looks.  But somewhere between the garb of the waning Yorkist rulers and the
flash of Henry 8 there has to have been SOMEthing!!  :)

Any Lancastrians who wanna chat, drop me a note any time...  :) My thesis is
on Jasper Tudor so I'm a bit... focused.  :)

Cheers,
Meli

----------Julian scripsit:

Robin, sorry to have confused your message header - I came into this thread
late and didn't read the beginnings of it.
 However, I'm delighted to have contacted you. I've seen your name on the
Lists to which i subscribe many, many times, and know the esteem in which
you are held by others whose particular interest is historic costume.
 My own theory about the apparent lack of study of the Henry VII period for
English clothing is that there doesn't seem to have BEEN an "English
Fashion". By everything I've read, the general conclusion I've drawn from
the works of others who've studied and researched far more deeply than I -
is that - due to the social "uncertainty" arising from the power struggles
of the WotR, England didn't have the peaceful conditions which would have
allowed/encouraged the development of an "English Fasjion". By everything
I've read, - from about 1450, until the Accession of Henry 8th,  - English
"fashions" were heavily influenced by those of the "most brilliant" Court"
in Europe, that of Burgundy, ruled over for much of that time by Princess
Margaret of York, from her Capital at Mechelin in Flanders.
 I won't try and drag you further into a  discussion on this when you are
concentrating on another topic, - but such a definitive book is still on my
wish List.

 Regards,
 Julian Wilson, [in 2007]
 "Matthew Baker"  [lifelong Liegeman to Henry Tudor, Earl of Richmond, and
then King of England, - in the SCA]
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