Another fan of late 15th century here too. I did a fairish bit of digging around into women's clothes of this period (sorry Julian not so interested in men's clothes) about 5 years ago. Actually it must be more than that, because I had no kids then and my eldest is six now. Anyway. There is a brief and distinctly English style between the Burgundian phase and what I like to call 'proto-Tudor'. This style begins in the 1570s and disappears very abruptly in 1485 when the proto-Tudor style comes in just as abruptly. It consists of a close-fitting, low waisted kirtle with a low round neck with a 'bertha' style round collar. The sleeves are tight and long, often going over the hand, and it is worn with a very distinctive style of long girdle. The trucated hennin (or flowerpot hat) was very commonly worn with this style.
The proto-Tudor style is pretty much as you've described it. The train is often very long and pinned up to the back of the waist. Also the wide sleeves that are common with this style in France and the Low Countries are not unusual in England. The style seems to filter down very quickly to the middle and lower classes as many illuminations from this period show women with square necked kirtle and gowns. Curiously, some of them have an odd diagonal opening at the front that I've never quite figured out. There is not a lot of info out there for this period. Older books, if you can work around their flaws, were the best sources I found. eg Cunnington, or Kelly. Also books on funeral brasses and tapestries, which were at their peak during this period. Another source I found quite useful is an illustrated edition of the Canterbury Tales I have (it was very common here a few years ago) that draws most of it's illuminations from late 15th century illuminations and woodcuts. Claire Message: 2 Date: Wed, 14 Nov 2007 09:05:10 -0500 From: "Sharon Henderson" <[EMAIL PROTECTED]> Subject: [h-cost] Re: Henry 7 Fashion Trends To: [EMAIL PROTECTED] Message-ID: <[EMAIL PROTECTED]> Content-Type: text/plain; charset=ISO-8859-1 Hey Julian, I'm right there with you! My SCA persona, Meleri ferch Iasper ap Dafydd, is a follower of the beloved and darn-near sainted Earl of Pembroke, the Earl of Richmond's uncle and protector... :) I would love to see a good study of this period too! I'm sure the Burgundian influences remained because of the Yorkist duchess, but we must not discount the influence of Brittany (itself alas probably heavily influenced by Burgundy), owing to the Exilic Years of Henry and Earl Jasper. From the few pics we have of Henry and his queen, we do know the "standard silhouettes" were in operation: the skirted doublet and over-robe (chamarre, I think?), and that French-style round cap with the laced sides for the guys, and the kirtle along Burgundian lines but with a more lowered waist and less bulky skirt for the ladies, with the long, slim sleeves and the long-sided English gable hood... but there had to be more to it all than that! I know the excesses of Henry 8's reign and following, where the kid blew the budget Dad had left him, have taken most of the attention--and I'm good with that because I love the classic 1520s and 30s looks. But somewhere between the garb of the waning Yorkist rulers and the flash of Henry 8 there has to have been SOMEthing!! :) Any Lancastrians who wanna chat, drop me a note any time... :) My thesis is on Jasper Tudor so I'm a bit... focused. :) Cheers, Meli ----------Julian scripsit: Robin, sorry to have confused your message header - I came into this thread late and didn't read the beginnings of it. However, I'm delighted to have contacted you. I've seen your name on the Lists to which i subscribe many, many times, and know the esteem in which you are held by others whose particular interest is historic costume. My own theory about the apparent lack of study of the Henry VII period for English clothing is that there doesn't seem to have BEEN an "English Fashion". By everything I've read, the general conclusion I've drawn from the works of others who've studied and researched far more deeply than I - is that - due to the social "uncertainty" arising from the power struggles of the WotR, England didn't have the peaceful conditions which would have allowed/encouraged the development of an "English Fasjion". By everything I've read, - from about 1450, until the Accession of Henry 8th, - English "fashions" were heavily influenced by those of the "most brilliant" Court" in Europe, that of Burgundy, ruled over for much of that time by Princess Margaret of York, from her Capital at Mechelin in Flanders. I won't try and drag you further into a discussion on this when you are concentrating on another topic, - but such a definitive book is still on my wish List. Regards, Julian Wilson, [in 2007] "Matthew Baker" [lifelong Liegeman to Henry Tudor, Earl of Richmond, and then King of England, - in the SCA] ------------------------------ _______________________________________________ h-costume mailing list [email protected] http://mail.indra.com/mailman/listinfo/h-costume
