Kill me if this has been discussed before, but I couldn't find anything that 
would help me with this matter:

I'm going to make a pourpoint inspired by the Charles de Blois pourpoint, 
fitted, but not as much as the extant garment, and of a slightly thicker 
material and padding. 

I'm familiar with modern construction techniques and know some of the period 
ones, but the problem is that I've never done a padded garment before and I 
cannot imagine how much larger the pattern should be according to the wearer's 
measurements. I've made a tight-fitting block directly on the man and now my 
trouble is where and how much to enlarge it. Shall I enlarge it only 
horizontally, or in both directions, where more, where less. How big will be 
the bust difference between the measurement and the actual garment?

I cannot figure out how to do a block or a fitting with all the layers 
unstitched and I cannot afford to make a big mistake, as I'll probably first 
cut out the pattern on all the layers, do the quilting and then do the fitting.

Do you have some experience with that, or can refer to a good web page or an 
older h-cost discussion (I didn't find any of this sort)?

Thanks a lot for any hints and tips,

Zuzana

       
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