> My problem: every painting of the Spanish style of the time shows unpleated > skirts, at least in front. Alcega's pattern produces a skirt that would have > to be pleated (the front panels alone are 28 cm each at the waist, as > indicated on the pattern, and the back panels are even wider).
As mentioned in my earlier email I follow Alcega, waide waistline and all. I found the side seams of the skirt matched up nicely to the side back seams of the bodice which meant the fullness of the back of the skirt is arranged into a very narrow space. I found if I made the front narrower and tried getting the seam to the side proper then the whole skirt sat strangely. That was both with my test and final skirt. http://costumes.glittersweet.com/sca/valoisdiary.htm This is not linked to from my main site pages as I am in the process of shifting all the diaries to a new section. And last night I found confirmation of my theory: http://www.kalipedia.com/arte/tema/pintura.html?x=20070718klparthis_89.Kes&ap=3 While I have my doubts that this is Coello (the feel of the painting is very Netherlandish) and it is post-mortem, the figure with her back to us is Isabel de Valois ( http://sayaespanola.glittersweet.com/isabeldevalois.htm compare the orange dress to the one in the above painting) and she appears to have pleats that correspond to the pleats in my dress: Back: http://img.photobucket.com/albums/v609/glittersweet/costume/otherhistoric/dress_1.jpg Front: http://img.photobucket.com/albums/v609/glittersweet/costume/otherhistoric/valoisportfolio.jpg Except that I do have a *little* more fullness than in the painting! I'm going to put the pleats into permanent folds by roll pleating later in the year as I think that will help keep the exess fabric right in the very back where I want it and the tension in the pleats will keep the fabric from falling too far forward. Regards, Michaela de Bruce http://glittersweet.com _______________________________________________ h-costume mailing list h-costume@mail.indra.com http://mail.indra.com/mailman/listinfo/h-costume
