Thanks! Mike T sent me a note that the 17th century women's version
might be like the bedgown-like garment in Vermeer's Woman Holding a
Balance; the French written sources my online search turned up all
were versions of the one C. sent (below), from which it is hard to
tell if the women's version was loose, as in the Vermeer, or fitted
("serreé à la taille" seems to mean "close-fitting"; "à grandes
basques" seems to mean "with full skirts", but I am just at the
beginnings of learning to translate historical-fashion French). Some
of the men's military versions look fitted; some look like an attempt
to fit a fur-lined garment, and some seem open, like in the Vermeer.
But what version would be made in blue velvet to appeal to a 17th-
century fairy? ;-)
la hongreline, sorte de veste à basques longues agrafée sur le
devant et serrée à la taille.
HONGRELINE, s. f. (Gram. & mod.) sorte d'ajustement des femmes, fait
en chemisette à grandes basques. On prétend qu'il a été ainsi
appellé, parce que l'usage en est venu de Hongrie.
So far the only pictures I have found that identify a garment as a
hongreline in the captions or titles are all military, like this one.
Third figure in this picture is an officer in a (presumably military)
hongreline (sorry for the long link, must learn to use tinyURL soon):
http://digitalgallery.nypl.org/nypldigital_dev/
dgkeysearchdetail.cfm?
trg=1&strucID=707231&imageID=830336&total=2&num=0&word=Musketeers%20--
%20French%20--%
201600-1699&s=3¬word=&d=&c=&f=2&k=0&lWord=&lField=&sScope=&sLevel=&sL
abel=&imgs=20&pos=1&e=w
Another question while I am here: I've been reading TH Breen's _The
Marketplace of Revolution_ ,which I recommend to anybody doing 18th
Century American historical costume, as to make his case he's
assembled a lot of information from varied sources on the social
connotations of clothing made of imported goods. Among the materials
he quotes are published rants about people dressing above their
station, and the threat to good order represented by maids in chintz.
In at least one of these, the rant-writer is upset that even servant-
girls go about in velvet. I had been under the impression that in
18th century fashion, velvet was primarily used in men's garments.
Anybody have an example of a woman's velvet anything in the English
colonies of North America in the 1700s?
Thanks!
Lauren
Lauren M. Walker
[EMAIL PROTECTED]
On Oct 10, 2008, at 6:07 AM, [EMAIL PROTECTED] wrote:
I found the following in a quick search that was full of non-
functioning
hotlinks. Hmmph! It does not add much; let me catch up with my
assistant and
whip her into returning my fashion dictionaries to see what's said.
It is odd
that there are no easy-to-find pics of the feamle version, it does
sound a
little like an 18-19th century riding coat sitting tight over the
body and
flairing for the skirt.
-C.
The hongreline was a mid-thigh-length surtout or overcoat of the
frock style,
usually trimmed and/or lined with fur developed and popularized
during the mid-
17th Century. Brought from Germany, the hongreline was popular in
France during
the reign of Louis XIII. The hongreline was both worn by military and
civilians. At the end of the reign, a variation on the hongreline
developed in
the military; a sort of front-buttoned coat with a split in the
rear near the
hips.
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