I was a historical judge at CC27, and I think I promised somebody a "judge's
eye view" report afterward.  In addition, as I told the contestants and
audience Sunday night, I will answer specific questions on the results.  The
first is the perennial question about entering in the first place.

Why should I enter the Historical Masquerade?  I'm shy, I don't think my
outfit is really good, and I get stage fright (and I don't want to have the
stress of losing).

If any of the above applies, enter Not For Competition.  This lets the
judges have a break from the stress of judging* and gives you the chance to
show your outfit off to everyone, not just those lucky few why happen to see
you walk by.  (I hardly saw any of the Con, and only went to the two panels
I was schedule to do.)  It also gives you free stage practice.  It also lets
you show off something only folks on the opposite coast have seen.  It also
lets you show off something that has already won a prize someplace else.

*(Yeah, it's stressful judging presentation.  We have mere seconds to make
our stage-award decisions, then we have to clear our minds completely for
the next entry.  For example, the first entry up this year, Jennifer Lima's
Anne Bolyn, gave us goosebumps, all three judges.  Then we had to get over
it and move on to the next one.  Really good presentation, and it wasn't
easy for us.)

As for the rest of the judging process, there are three aspects of a
historical costume that can be judged, and they're all important.  These are
the research (aka the docs), the execution (aka Workmanship), and the
presentation.  A Best in Show will score high in all three of these, even if
another entry scores higher in one than they do.  Part 1 of my observations
is about the documentation.

Do I need compulsive documentation?

No.  If you don't have any documentation, and if you're doing a period the
judges know a lot about anyway (or is commonly done), and if your
presentation is good and your construction is right up there, you stand a
chance to get an award.  You just can't get a doc award without docs.  And
you might lose out to another entry just as good as yours where the fact
that they had docs and you didn't was the tie-breaker.

If I don't need documentation, why bother doing it?

The real purpose of submitting docs is to show the judges how well you did
what you did.  (You've already done the research, haven't you?)  It gives
judges something to compare with.  It also expands the range of what you can
do, in that if a judge doesn't know your period well your docs should give
them enough education that they can see you did it right.  (This is
especially useful if you're doing an Anime costume for a SF Masquerade,
where the judges may never have seen your show before.)

What really needs to be in those docs?

Show the judges what you're trying to do, so they can see how well you did
it.  Use primary sources whenever possible (secondary, etc, only when you
have to), and back up any one source with another if you can.  Document
everything you did, and provide footnotes for each.  Think term paper (not
Doctoral Thesis).

Justify any changes from original practice.  If you can't afford the real
thing, or it is unobtainable now, document what the real thing was and what
you did instead.  It is a mark of your costuming skill if you found a good
substitute, and costuming skill is what is being judged here, not budget.
This is our hobby, and you shouldn't be penalized for not being fabulously
wealthy.  Likewise, making or finding good substitutes take more costuming
skill than buying perfect antiques does.

If you don't want to do workmanship judging, your docs should include an
image or two of everything that doesn't show from on stage.  Have one shot
of each whole garment and one close-up of the coolest detail.

Document any period skill you learned for this outfit.  This might include
dying, weaving, period embroidery stitches, fabric painting, etc.  Again, it
is a mark of your skill if you did the work instead of buying a substitute.

What can I leave out of my docs?

Don't bother with the whole journal of how you made the garments.  Show one
image of you doing the hand sewing if you must, but historical judges will
believe you did the hand sewing they see if you say you did it.  And don't
snow the judges with 20 examples where a few will do - they'll only compare
yours to the ones that look most like it, so the others are unnecessary.

Presenting your docs in what looks like a period manner is a nice touch
(Anne Bolyn's docs came wrapped in parchment folded in a period way, and
sealed in wax with a 'B' imprinted in it), but avoid getting cute unless
your presentation is supposed to be funny.  This is especially the case if
the judges think you're using cute to cover for lack of content.

My docs this year would have been a total of 32 Xeroxed sheets (for the SF
Masquerade, and my entry had to scratch) stuffed into a binder with my name
on it and the title of the presentation.  Three sheets were the book covers
of my contemporary sources, and each sheet from these books showed the
original page number.  These sheets documented the dress, underwear, corset,
petticoat, shoes, stockings, sleeve detailing, hair and hair pins, and
period hem length.  Every garment was cited from at least two different
places printed within a couple of years of the garment I was doing, or from
measured re-drawings done from contemporary garments.  Six sheets showed
contemporary photos.  In addition to these 32 sheets, I included a copy of
the short sf story I based the costume on, which I didn't expect the judges
to read, only notice.

-- 
Carolyn Kayta Barrows
--
Blank paper is God's way of saying it ain't so easy being God.
--
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