Ah, you are correct, of course. There are so few extant examples that I
really shouldn't jump to conclusions. I had not seen the white one from
Vintage Textiles--it looks a little odd for the period--both the row of buttons
and the ribbon band--however, she is usually accurate in her dating. I
had seen the quilted one (there is some speculation that it might be a
made-over quilted petticoat)--I see the band buttons, but not all the way up
the
front. Fashion plates aren't always helpful, are they? That ubiquitous
navy blue one pictured with the green quilted (incidently, also re-drawn in
a German publication, where the woman holds an embroidery frame) appears to
fasten in back--so belying the idea that a woman just tossed on a spencer
when she was cold. There are also, though, some wrap around examples, both
in cotton and, I think, silk, so it could be a model like that.
However, my overall philosophy for making clothing for reenacting is, stick
with what I have pretty good knowledge was really worn, rather than the
maybes or the exceptions. I have worked with people who haven't had years
of experience looking and researching and it seems that, as soon as someone
makes one non-normative example, it has a way of taking on a life of its
own and you start seeing them everywhere! So I stick with spencers that meet
edge to edge, although I do use modern coat hooks and eyes (hooks and
eyes are period though, just not this style), or ties, or a buckle, to fasten
them. [I do plan to make a riding habit someday with rows and rows of
metal buttons--I have the fabric, and the buttons--now I just need the time to
make it! I don't ride but will wear it for traveling.]
So, you see, if you did a gown with a skirt panel that buttons, with no
firm evidence that such existed, I imagine other people would see yours and
copy it and it might become a reenactorism.
Just my two cents.
Ann Wass
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