Grid square or image blow up only gets you so far. The big catch is
your body is not not like the body in the pattern... and it's not just a
matter of "grading" to size up.
If you're working off a grid pattern made for modern bodies.. grids will
work... if you know the original measurements that the pattern was made
for before it was reduced... say the quarter inch become 1". You
divide your measurements into theirs. ie if you waist is 1.5 times
bigger than the pattern, but you're .75 of their length, and your bust
is the same... You have to shorten the pattern by a quarter while
expanding the waist 50%. (This worked well for me blowing up
Hunnisseete patterns.) The bust will be closer... but you are still
going to need to mock it up and adjust the curves a bit.
The problem you get into when doing this from a period pattern, the body
shape is a LOT different due to corset, standard posture, etc. You are
going to have to do a LOT more adjusting. The skirts will be easier
than a bodice... since the skirts are mostly just long lines that can be
adjusted by just pivoting. Your bodice pieces aren't nearly as
forgiving. You can enlarge the square grid by math and then you can do
standard pattern adjustment of clip and pivot, BUT... unless you know
the measurements the pattern was made for... you're kinda stuck there...
Oh, and don't forget on measurements... you're talking about over the
underpinings to get your corseted waist and bust....
Personally... for the bodice area... I think a better bet is to drape
the bodice over the underpinnings on the person who the dress is for.
Look at the book for the shape of the draped pieces... ie where to put
the seams, side, bust aligned, collar, etc.
Another advantage of this, in the sleeve area, you make the decision if
you want to really make the sleeves as restrictive as they were for that
period, or add more modern movement. (You're not as accurate, but if
you're not into wearing historical garments as much, you may choose
movement over accuracy.)
-Cat-
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