Thanks for the interesting information and links, Fran.

--- On Sun, 5/23/10, Lavolta Press <[email protected]> wrote:

From: Lavolta Press <[email protected]>
Subject: Re: [h-cost] Finally, someone has figured out how to repurpose doilies
To: "Historical Costume" <[email protected]>
Date: Sunday, May 23, 2010, 12:23 PM

n 5/23/2010 6:44 AM, R Lloyd Mitchell wrote:
> I know there is a fashion idea of Cheap chic, but I think this particulaly is 
> more akin to the bordello or boudoir...even if they show the portential of a 
> Sport line. The last time around (70's/80's) the theme seemed to be in to the 
> re-use or reclaimed clothing mode.
> Found myself wondering what event these tatty?garments would fit and couldn't 
> think of one.

They're not intended to be 100% authentic historic for the conservative--but 
hey, they're not my creations, so say what you will. To the designer, if you 
like. For myself, I just bought three of their jackets.

I live in San Francisco, where the attitudes are liberal, the climate is warm, 
and women aren't obliged to adhere to conservative, middle-aged stereotypes. I 
happily go around all day wearing boho, which I've been loving being able to do 
for the past few years. I've got ombre tiered skirts from India (I bought a big 
lot at $12 apiece off eBay from a Thai seller two years ago), and I've got all 
kinds of really interesting ruched skirts, tunics with irregular edges, 70s 
gypsy couture stuff I saved since the 70s, my tablecloth and dyed 
creations--the lot.  I combine them with my original Victorian and Edwardian 
clothes--I've always loved underwear as outerwear, and the 1910s skirts work 
well just now. I just bought a couple of oversized Edwardian chemises cheap off 
eBay to dye and turn into lagenlook tunics, by ruching and shaping the edges, 
because I couldn't face dyeing and cutting up any of the ones I already have.

There are some really creative labels and designers for the new boho, much of 
which is fairly different from the 70s and also, structurally more complicated. 
Check out the US designer/manufacturer XCVI (for riffs on 1880s bustle skirts), 
Krista Larson (Victorian/Edwardian inspired), Homefrocks (often also 
Victorian/Edwardian inspired), La Journee (Goth-inspired, but I haven't seen a 
lot of their stuff lately), and Spirithouse (which has done some interesting 
things with bustle skirts and with using surface texture). Cynthia Ashby's 
designs tend to be too bulky and blocky for my taste, but I have a few of them 
that I like.

Then there are the European labels for what they call the "lagenlook" (German 
for layered look) in Europe and England. The lagenlook designers/manufacturers 
include Completo Lino (linen tunic-dresses), Privatsachen (I've bought some 
beautiful Fortuny-like, 1910s-ish pleated silk dresses from them), Martine 
Samoun (fluid draped styles), Zuza Bart (some great knits), Ewa i Walla (much 
of which is too little-girls-in-pigtails for my taste, but some interesting 
riffs on the 18th century), Hebbeding (more conservative than Completo Lino but 
some interestingly shaped tunics), Barbara Speer (knits, less expensive than 
Zuza Bart). They're doing some fascinating things playing with structure. Their 
creations often are for the tall and stout, and since I'm not, I have to make 
sure I'm not overwhelmed. I usually wear the tunics as dresses and cut down on 
the layers.

Anyway, if you want to see some of them, check out these stores:

http://www.2chicboutique.com
http://www.artfulwears.com
http://www.tcboutique.com (they usually have a good XCVI selection)

That's one of the great things about both boho and my geographic area: I don't 
have to wait for a historic event to wear interesting clothes. And as someone 
who loves them, I'm not going to sit inside and wear black for the rest of my 
life (yes, I know black is chic, I just prefer fall colors).

Fran
Lavolta Press
www.lavoltapress.com





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