------------------------------ Message: 3 Date: Sat, 9 Oct 2010 11:43:20 -0500 From: Alexandria Doyle <[email protected]> To: Historical Costume <[email protected]> Subject: [h-cost] fitting question Message-ID: <[email protected]> Content-Type: text/plain; charset=windows-1252
I have in the past made several ladies a fitted cote, circa 1400. The fit of the body has been good and I don't have a problem with thet. I have been having problems with the fit of the sleeve/shoulders in ladies that have wide shoulders. Usually when I drape with the arm straight out from the shoulder, sleeve fits snug to the arm pit. For those with narrower shoulders, there doesn't seem to be a problem. But I've come across two ladies now, with wide shoulders that while everything fits in the neutral position, the moment they make movements with the arms forward they have issues with bunching at the front of the arm hole in particular, and to a certain extent gaping at the neckline. The capes on the sleeve at this point are realitively shallow, so would increasing the depth of the curve help? making the armhole openning larger? Add a gusset to the armpit? I'm currently working with a dress that is made up, and while I can recut new sleeves if needed, starting from scratch on the body is out of the question. alex ------------------------------ Look up the pattern for the Pourpoint of Charles de Blois (there's one here: http://www.personal.utulsa.edu/~marc-carlson/cloth/blois.html). This has a very deep armhole with many gores/gussets set into the top of the sleeve to create a large circular sleeve head. Someone once told me this is a good way to make a close fitting garment for men with large shoulder/back muscles so I wonder if you could do something similar, if less extreme for yur wide shouldered women. Claire _______________________________________________ h-costume mailing list [email protected] http://mail.indra.com/mailman/listinfo/h-costume
