18thC stockings have been discussed in detail on a few different lists:
http://groups.yahoo.com/group/HistoricKnit/
http://groups.yahoo.com/group/18cWoman/
http://groups.yahoo.com/group/FandIWomen/
What you saw are probably frame knit as opposed to hand knit. Here is
a link to a pair, and I'm sure the embroidery is different:
http://www.visitorreview.com/fashionphotographycompetition/22Plus/
RememberingJeremyFarrell
There are a few differences between how they were made and making
them yourself. Through most of the 18thC, stockings were knit to
shape on the knitting frame. That means that they had a finished
edge. When making them from a cut fabric, you'll need to make sure
you have a sufficient seam allowance or seam finish. The really
tricky place for this is at the top of the gore which would be
inserted into the ankle portion. See the Kannick's pattern illustration:
http://www.kannikskorner.com/pataccess.htm
"Stockings, pockets and mitts," a good base for making your repro
stockings from knit yardgoods.
18thC knits were dense, and the frame knit fabric does not have a lot
of stretch. Modern jersey knits are very stretchy, so while you could
use a silk jersey, it will be different. It depends on how picky you
are about that, also experiments would help to see how well it can
support the embroidery.
So far all stockings I've seen (and I've seen a lot of them!) have
the clocking on BOTH SIDES of the leg.
As far as the embellishment, since you said it was gold then I'm
assuming metallic threads. With metallic thread, some stockings have
the main motif stitched onto vellum, then that piece is applied onto
the stocking with extra portions embroidered right on the stocking.
Regular old silk thread embroidery is also found.
Plating is specific to frame-knit stockings and seems to have fallen
out of fashion about the middle of the 18th century. This was done as
the stocking was knit, by introducing a contrast color of filaments
on top of the main thread. It can be mimicked by duplicate stitch
embroidery, but that embroidery thread would have to be very fine.
Turnshapes were a way of manipulating the frame knitting (in
progress) to form purl stitches. I think these fell out of favor as
frame knitting became more of a production craft, with the finished
plain stocking handed off to an embroiderer (cheaper tools) for
embellishment.
One more technique is called "chevening," supposedly invented in
1783. This involves taking a horizontal stitch across the knit stitch
ad can be seen in the 3rd image (monochrome clocking) of the
Remembering Jeremy Farrell set. With single stitches in the same
thread as the stocking, it will resemble purl stitches. Stitches were
also taken across 3, 5 or 7 stitches to form the more detailed design
such as the one in that image. Chevening was also done in colors for
some very complex designs, especially going into the early 19th century.
A lot of this will require decisions and compromise as you make your
stockings. I learned to knit on an antique frame but never got close
to an exact repro. It all depends on your end use and authenticity
standards. You can get away with more short-cuts on something you are
wearing vs. a stocking made to go on display.
-Carol
On Jan 29, 2011, at 3:26 AM, Marjorie Wilser wrote:
One surprise was a delicious bright red pair of ladies' hose from
the 18th century. They were knit in silk with a fine denier,
looking much like modern t-shirt knit, and heavily embroidered
(clocked) in gold. The surprise was the construction. The fine knit
fabric was literally sewn down the back. The heel seam was a right
angle and continued underneath the heel, ending at the back of the
instep. Not much relation to the way in which I knit my own socks,
and I have tried some historic patterns. I'll be able to describe
more when I upload my potos.
It appears to me that any ambitious sewing person could fashion
these stockings, if she/he wanted to embroider badly enough to have
some luscious clocked stockings. . .
http://www.lacma.org/art/ExhibFashioningFashion.aspx
== Marjorie Wilser
=:=:=:Three Toad Press:=:=:=
"Learn to laugh at yourself and you will never lack for amusement."
--MW
http://3toad.blogspot.com/
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