Yes, the fabric is from our shop. We made a reproduction of it about a year ago, and the fabric is already sold out. We are currently re-fabricating the fabric, it will be available end of January/February. It might look a bit different, the pattern will be a bit smaller and we might do a brocade instead of a damask. It will appear on our site once it's available again.
As for the cut...Astrida is right the fabric reflects light differently on the sleeves...which makes a nice effect. I really like this "grand assiette" cut, the freedom of movement is very good and there is no uncomfortable thick armhole seam. It is not true that there needs to be super extra bulk under the arm. By changing the widths of the gores inserted into the sleeve, the sleeve will fit differently, you can adjust it to have less bulk under the arm. If you would take the original pattern and glue the paper pieces together, you'd find out that the sleeve is set so that the arm is lifted above the shoulders at about a 30° degree. What I did was make the arm level with the shoulders. Much more comfortable. I will explain all this better in the tutorial once I write it:-) Zuzana ___________________________ www.sartor.cz --- On Tue, 12/6/11, Astrida Schaeffer <astr...@schaefferarts.com> wrote: > From: Astrida Schaeffer <astr...@schaefferarts.com> > Subject: Re: [h-cost] Grandes assiettes - single or double layer > To: "Historical Costume" <h-cost...@indra.com> > Date: Tuesday, December 6, 2011, 3:47 PM > Beautiful, Zuzana!! Is that your > fabric as well? I seem to recall you were going to be making > reproductions of it. Stunning! > > Astrida > > > On Dec 6, 2011, at 5:11 AM, Zuzana Kraemerova wrote: > > > Hi, > > > > I checked all I could find out (year 1999 mostly, then > something from 2000), but didn't find an answer to what I'm > searching for. You were discussing bit different things. > Maybe I just missed some important post? > > So were the "grandes assiettes" sleeves pictured in > one colour, and the body in another, one garment? I read the > Adrien Harmand's book and it semms she thinks it was one > garment. > > > > Do you have this monograph from Musee de Tissus? How > it's called? Where can I get it? I am very curious about the > theory of the under "vest". I've done various pourpoints of > this style, but as I didn't find any info on how the chest > wast stuffed, I just put two small cushions on either side > of the chest, hidden by the lining, which made the large > chest in the end. This technique works well for quilted > garments, but not so well for anything without stuffing, > because the soft fabric will dip in at the front opening. > See my last "charles de Blois" attempt here: > http://www.facebook.com/media/set/?set=a.10150367778803721.352533.294387883720&type=3 > > > > Just one observation I have to follow on some of the > 12 year old discussions - I think the grande assiette sleeve > is easy to construct once you know how. You can do any form > of sleeve, whether tight fitting, bag, or wide at the > bottom. I will be writing a detailed tutorial on how to do > this once I get to it. Would you folks be interested? > > > > Zuzana > > > > _________________________ > > www.sartor.cz > > > > > > --- On Tue, 12/6/11, Cin <cinbar...@gmail.com> > wrote: > > > >> From: Cin <cinbar...@gmail.com> > >> Subject: Re: [h-cost] Grandes assiettes - single > or double layer > >> To: "Historical Costume" <h-cost...@indra.com> > >> Date: Tuesday, December 6, 2011, 1:56 AM > >> In a monograph published by the Musee > >> des Tissus (Lyons), the Charles > >> de Blois pourpoint is conjectured to be worn over > a > >> vest-like thing > >> that held all the stuffing for the fashionable > high puff > >> chest. This > >> particular example has the sleeves & body of > the gament > >> all in the > >> same fabric. > >> We discussed this pourpoint, the account books > from the > >> Dukes of > >> Lorraine, Jeanne d'Arc & the records > from her > >> trial waaay-back. Check > >> the h-cost archives. > >> --cin > >> Cynthia Barnes > >> cinbar...@gmail.com > >> > >> > >> > >> On Sat, Dec 3, 2011 at 4:54 AM, Zuzana Kraemerova > <zkraemer...@yahoo.com> > >> wrote: > >>> Hi there, > >>> > >>> I am searching for evidence for the grandes > assiettes > >> sleeve construction from the 14th and 15th > centuries, the > >> type with two coloured garment - sleeves in one > colour, > >> bodice in another. Like this: > >> http://www.cottesimple.com/blois_and_sleeves/grande_assiette/Sachsenspiegel_large.jpg > >>> > >>> Do you know whether this was one garment made > from two > >> fabrics, or two separate garments, the upper being > a > >> vest-sort of thing? I know this is often > discussed, but has > >> anyone already found an answer to this question? > >>> > >>> Thanks a lot, > >>> > >>> Zuzana > >> > >> _______________________________________________ > >> h-costume mailing list > >> h-costume@mail.indra.com > >> http://mail.indra.com/mailman/listinfo/h-costume > >> > > > > _______________________________________________ > > h-costume mailing list > > h-costume@mail.indra.com > > http://mail.indra.com/mailman/listinfo/h-costume > > > _______________________________________________ > h-costume mailing list > h-costume@mail.indra.com > http://mail.indra.com/mailman/listinfo/h-costume > _______________________________________________ h-costume mailing list h-costume@mail.indra.com http://mail.indra.com/mailman/listinfo/h-costume
