It may even be like Copley, the American painter did----Paint the same
dress, and just add the face of the person you are painting. I often wonder
if the painter had the gown on loan and painted it, in its minute detail,
without the subject having to sit there all day. Or maybe the painter
embellished from his imagination.
Sharon C.

-----Original Message-----
From: [email protected] [mailto:[email protected]] On
Behalf Of lynlee o
Sent: Thursday, March 01, 2012 5:04 PM
To: [email protected]
Subject: Re: [h-cost] partlets



 


Hi,
 
I am not nearly as experienced here as most of you, but looking at the
pictures, what I see is not "always brocade with brocade" or "always black
velvet if plain", but that "the partlet always matches another fabric in the
dress". The black velvet partlet matches the black velvet on the sleeves,
the brocade partlet matches the brocade in the dress. I don't think that
from 3 or 4 images you can make any tighter assumption. Unless you are doing
an exact reproduction of a picture, I do not think anyone can call your plan
"unsupported". 
 
It appears to me that the partlet fabric was likely chosen to balance the
design and/or make best use of available fabric. I am sure the gowns in
pictures were a tiny minority of all gowns made and probably chosen as those
with the best sense of symetry and balance to the eye of the painter rather
than painted to be a representation for "today in fashion". I believe
details were included to show allegorical and political messages, rather
than photographic-style accuracy in many paintings. The whole painting was
to represent the person to the world as they wished to be seen, they may not
have even been wearing brocade on the day! Note that there are different
brocades in exactly the same colour pallet. I believe this is evidence of
massaging reality with artistic licence.
 
Lynlee
 
>I've been planning some fabric purchases with a new Tudor court gown 
>(in a 1540s - 1550s style) in mind and have ordered some red silk 
>taffeta I was originally planning to include a matching partlet but I've
encountered a problem.
 
>The portraits I can find are either plain black silk with a matte 
>(probably
>velvet) partlet e.g.
>a velvet gown with a matching velvet partlet e.g.
>a brocade gown with a matching brocade partlet e.g.
>What I can't find is a gown made of a plain coloured (for these 
>purposes I'm not counting black as a colour) silk (e.g. satin or 
>taffeta) with a partlet.
 
>This evidence leads me to two possible conclusions either the only time 
>a partlet is not made of velvet is when it's a brocade or that if you 
>have a coloured gown you make the partlet out of the same dress.
>So I'm hoping that either somebody else on this list has a better art 
>collection than me and can provide an example of a coloured silk gown 
>with a partlet or, failing that, somebody can make a good logical 
>argument why one is more likely than the other.
 
--
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