Thank you so much! This really helps!

Lauren M. Walker
[email protected]



On Sep 17, 2013, at 7:25 PM, Katy Bishop wrote:

> I found an illustration from the Delineator from 1889, July that shows a
> similar hat, with the same off center wavy brim, from the back, and it
> seems to have a very low crown. Leghorn is a type of straw.
> 
> Katy
> 
> 
> On Tue, Sep 17, 2013 at 6:42 PM, Emily Gilbert <[email protected]>wrote:
> 
>> I'm not an expert on this topic, but looking at the link to the fashion
>> notes for the year, which refer to the "curious and startling" open-crowned
>> coronet bonnet (toward the bottom of the left-hand column on that page),
>> I'd say it's reasonably safe to assume that your leghorn does have a crown!
>> 
>> Emily
>> 
>> 
>> 
>> On 9/17/2013 2:11 PM, Lauren Walker wrote:
>> 
>>> Hi,
>>> Yes, the brim is wavy, but apparently that's a way of styling the
>>> "leghorn flat", since the written description calls it a "flat". (It's Fig.
>>> 2 in the descriptions here.)
>>> http://babel.hathitrust.org/**cgi/pt?id=mdp.39015004176882;**
>>> view=1up;seq=185<http://babel.hathitrust.org/cgi/pt?id=mdp.39015004176882;view=1up;seq=185>
>>> 
>>> So frequently, the descriptions assume we know the contemporaneous
>>> interpretation of the terms; they knew how this season's leghorn was
>>> shaped, and weren't thinking of us 120 years later trying to figure it out!
>>> 
>>> The previous issue's general discussion of fashion notes that the leghorn
>>> flat has made it's annual debut, and this year is twisted and bent as suits
>>> the wearer's fancy. http://babel.hathitrust.org/**
>>> cgi/pt?id=mdp.39015004176882;**view=1up;seq=86<http://babel.hathitrust.org/cgi/pt?id=mdp.39015004176882;view=1up;seq=86>
>>> 
>>> I think I'm going with light, flexible straw -- that part of the
>>> definition of "leghorn" seems to have stayed pretty constant -- and hoping
>>> to use millinery wire to get the bends in the brim to stay put.
>>> 
>>> Lauren M. Walker
>>> [email protected]
>>> 
>>> 
>>> 
>>> On Sep 17, 2013, at 2:12 PM, Lynn Downward wrote:
>>> 
>>> As I recall, leghorn describes the type of straw the hat is made of.
>>>> Also,
>>>> that brim is wavy, not flat at all. It's a gorgeous hat!
>>>> 
>>>> 
>>>> On Tue, Sep 17, 2013 at 11:06 AM, Lauren Walker
>>>> <[email protected]>**wrote:
>>>> 
>>>> Hi,
>>>>> Working on the last of the four 19th-century fashion plates I'm
>>>>> recreating
>>>>> as doll outfits! I would like to check in with those more familiar with
>>>>> 19th-century millinery about the hat. It's  an 1889 "flat leghorn",
>>>>> according to Godey's text; I'm trying to confirm that it has a low flat
>>>>> crown rather than an open one or a completely flat one.
>>>>> (figure on the right):
>>>>> http://babel.hathitrust.org/**cgi/pt?id=mdp.39015004176882;**
>>>>> view=1up;seq=109<http://babel.hathitrust.org/cgi/pt?id=mdp.39015004176882;view=1up;seq=109>
>>>>> Any thoughts?
>>>>> Thank you!
>>>>> (The third outfit was a nightmare; I remade it four times. Eventually I
>>>>> got the chiffon pleated in a satisfactory manner using a pleating board
>>>>> and
>>>>> plenty of starch, but no heat. There will be photos of all once the full
>>>>> project is done and the gift given to its intended recipient.)
>>>>> 
>>>>> Thanks again for all your aid. This has been so much fun! Even the pleat
>>>>> nightmare.
>>>>> Lauren
>>>>> 
>>>>> 
>>>>> Lauren M. Walker
>>>>> [email protected]
>>>>> 
>>>>> 
>>>>> 
>>>>> 
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>>>>> 
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>>> 
>>> 
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> 
> 
> 
> -- 
> Katy Bishop, Vintage Victorian
> [email protected]                www.VintageVictorian.com
>     Custom reproduction gowns of the Victorian Era.
>      Publisher of the Vintage Dress Series books.
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