Many thanks! I have to haul the few books I have out of storage but I’ve an answer now that will take this (very minor) project where it needs to go!
==Marjorie On Mar 13, 2014, at 1:38 AM, michaela de bruce <michaela.de.br...@gmail.com> wrote: >> >> a. Not upper class, more middling. >> b. pleats are fine by me. >> c. have at least 4x waist. >> d. allowing for bum roll >> >> Saw fabric (in the form of a pair of draperies) in a thrift store. Hy'ing >> my >> buns back there tomorrow to pick them up. >> Too bad though- cartridge pleating/gauging is a really pretty look! > > > Both Dorothea gowns (Sabine and Maria) are essentially gauged even though > they are both made from dense fabrics. Figure 340 in Patterns of Fashion > especially shows how fine the gathers are. They show so little of the > fabric that you can't really call them pleats, it is much closer to gauging > than what should be called cartridge pleating. Also the child's gown c1600 > is gathered. > > I may have a few issues with how confusing it gets when cartridge pleats > are meant to be padded and you know, look like a row of cartridges ;) But > the term is used to refer to even gathers. These are technically 17thC of > course. > > It's generally a case of make the fabric fit- which is pretty much the > extent of what tailors say in their manuals. Nothing about specific methods > or percentages. Just "make these parts match". Also important is how much > flare to the skirt gores you use because they really are a key to what > region and what time frame you are aiming for. And gores are really > important everywhere except for 1590s on and some of the Italian stuff. > Basically you get more hem for your buck by goring. > > Even Eleanora's skirt has pleats that are wider than they are deep, or > rather there are narrow knife pleats with expanses of unpleated fabric. Not > really something you can rigorously calculate ;) _______________________________________________ h-costume mailing list h-costume@mail.indra.com http://mail.indra.com/mailman/listinfo/h-costume
