Thanks!!! and safe travels to you  Paul

Date: Fri, 20 Aug 2010 10:16:33 -0700
Subject: Re: [hexayurt] Tying your Yurt down 101
From: [email protected]
To: [email protected]

It was just a straight copy and paste. Sorry.

On Tue, Aug 17, 2010 at 10:03 AM, Paul Sanow <[email protected]> wrote:






I have tried to get on the web site but cannot.  Is there a typo?  Thanks!!!

> Date: Mon, 16 Aug 2010 08:47:48 -0700
> Subject: [hexayurt] Tying your Yurt down 101
> From: [email protected]

> To: [email protected]
> 
> Got this from another group...
> 
> This document is also saved as a word .doc with the pictures, herehttp://f1.

> grp.yahoofs. com/v1/AC5nTMhPI Wcii_BfbMhxHP_ keJdr9bXiBzIJTEn
> bU6rolVwgJMlUkFN 0Bytt5TKrvIeblqe Opg20Mgoq9xhQiQ/ THE%20WIND% 20CARES
> %20NOT. doc
> 
> THE WIND CARES NOT
> 
> Tying your shit down 101

> 
> 
> 
> The wind cares not. It cares
> not that you didn’t sleep, or eat, or drink, or shit. It doesn’t care
> that you
> are having the best time of your life, or that you are having the

> worst day
> ever. The wind is completely indifferent to you and your needs and
> feelings. The
> wind can tear your shit down, break it into pieces, and completely
> ruin your
> day, IFyou let it.

> 
> 
> 
> This article is about tying
> things down in the wind.
> 
> 
> 
> I am neither a structural
> engineer nor materials specialist. I am a 26 year veteran of live show

> production, from major concerts to theme camps and a lot of stuff in
> between.  Over that time I’ve picked up a few things
> and learned a lot about what the wind does, how it does it, and ways
> to prevent

> it from doing those things. I’ve seen over $100,000 in concert
> lighting truss
> collapse, fold inward and come crashing down (thankfully no one was
> standing
> under it), and I’ve seem $20 shade structures hold up to sustained

> hurricane
> force winds over a period of days, and just shrug it off.
> 
> The difference is the way in which the structure is tied down or
> secured.  The difference is also weather
> or not the structure is allowed to oscillate

> and how much. This craft is known as ‘guying’ and HOW you decide to
> ‘guy’
> your structure can make the difference between a ‘simple’ whiteout, or
> a major
> disaster out on the playa. Do it right and your shade will hold up to

> Godzilla
> on a meth binge, do it wrong and a 20 mph gust will bring it down on
> top of
> you, your tent, your car, your neighbors car, etc.
> 
> 
> 
> One thing to remember about

> wind loading is that the resultant force applied increases
> exponentially as the
> wind speed increases. That means doubling the wind speed causes a FOUR
> TIMES
> INCREASE in applied loading. So, just because your shade stood up to

> last
> night’s whiteout does not mean it will hold up today. The three keys
> to keeping
> your shade up at Burning Man are
> 
> Solid and redundant guy linesSolid ground anchor pointsDaily/

> (sometimes)hourly maintenance of the
> entire system
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> SOLID AND REDUNDANT GUY
> LINES.
> 
> This is the main way I see
> people slacking on their shade so I’m going to tackle it first.

> 
> Let’s take a look at a
> simple 4 legged square shade structure. Please excuse my crappy
> drawing, I have
> other talents.
> 
> 
> 
> This is a very common type

> of shade canopy used all over the place and can range from a simple
> $30 canopy
> from a camping store, up to more expensive ‘easy-up’s’, and on up to
> the Costco
> garage carports or even larger structures.  Whatever type the object

> is, they all react
> pretty much the same to wind loading. That is to say, they give or
> flex, or
> bend slightly as the load is applied. When the force lightens up, the
> structure
> returns to its original shape/position. Kind of. This back and forth

> motion is
> often what starts the failure of the object and is known as an
> oscillation. (think: “wonka wonka wonka”
> action in the wind). We’ve all seen this happening. Your goal when
> tying

> anything down is to prevent this oscillation from occurring.
> 
> What’s happening is that the
> oscillation is loosening the tie downs, and the internal joints of the
> structure itself in many cases. Once that happens it’s usually only a

> matter of
> time before the structure gets bent or destroyed for the wind cares
> not.
> 
> 
> 
> Ok, so we need to tie this object
> down and prevent oscillation from happening? We all get that, but the

> confusion
> often comes from HOW to tie it down and in what configuration? You
> have many
> choices and they all have their strengths and weaknesses.
> 
> 
> 
> The strongest way to tie a

> square object like this shade structure down would be with an 8 point
> guy plan.
> In this view you are looking straight down from above.
> 
> 
> 
> In this scenario 8
> individual guy lines are run out from the top corners of the shade

> structure to
> presumably secure stakes of some sort in the ground. More on that
> later. This
> is the strongest but also most labor intensive of the way to guy this
> shade
> canopy down. Pros: Strongest and most wind proof. Cons: Labor/

> materials intensive,
> takes more time, uses a lot of real estate
> 
> 
> 
> Quite often I see people
> cutting corners on this design and just going with a 4 point tie down
> plan as

> seen below.
> 
> 4 points, while faster to
> set up and maintain has one serious design flaw; if one of the guys on
> the upwind
> side of the structure fails or comes loose, that corner of the object

> is then
> subjected to a prying action (Torsional loading) and the danger of a
> failure of
> the structure increases. Inevitably, this failure will occur A: when
> you’re out
> on the playa and not home to stop it. Or B: when you’re just barely

> asleep in
> your tent under it. 4 point Pros: quicker to set up, uses less real
> estate than
> 8 point. Cons: less redundancy, higher likelihood of failure if one of
> the
> lines comes loose.

> 
> 
> 
> Another option is one of “Internal
> Guying”, and though I don’t see it used very often, it’s actually a
> very solid
> and elegant way of securing your shade structure against wind loading

> and
> oscillations. Take a close look at the center camp structure when
> you’re out
> there, it is internally AND externally guyed down. That sucka isn’t
> moving. Internal
> guying creates an X pattern on each face, from the corner anchors that

> the legs
> are tied into (you ARE staking the legs themselves down too, aren’t
> you?)
> 
> 
> 
> There are two main
> advantages of the internal guy system. First is the redundancy of all

> of the
> ties working together to tightly hold the structure down, and second
> that it
> takes up no more real estate that the shade structure itself. This is
> of
> particular importance in crowded theme camps where tent camping space

> is at a
> premium or when cars are parked close by.
> 
> Internal guying Pros: takes
> up less real estate, less materials: 4 points hold the entire
> structure down.
> Cons: corner stakes need to be 100% bomb proof, this usually means

> going to
> larger and harder to remove stakes or rebar (see below).
> 
> 
> 
> A final word on guy lines is
> the angle that they come off the structure at. Ultimately you’d want

> them at a
> very shallow angle spreading way out to the sides to prevent Torsional
> loading
> and oscillations. But again the real estate this consumes would be
> huge. So
> most of us end up with somewhere around a 45 degree angle, which is

> adequate.
> Just keep in mind that LESS than 45 degree angle (like almost straight
> down) is
> increasingly useless. All this does is apply downward pull (load) on
> the
> structure but it does nothing to prevent oscillations; the great

> destroyer of
> shade at Burning Man. The rule is; 45 degrees outward or greater on
> the
> guy lines.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> SOLID GROUND ANCHOR POINTS.

> 
> By far the most secure
> anchor point you can create is about 2 feet of rebar pounded down
> almost flush
> with the playa and leaning outward against the direction of pull.
> Rebar is a

> pain in the ass to remove however at the end of the week in many cases
> it’s
> almost TOO solid of an anchor. The dozens of pieces left stranded on
> the BRC
> site every year are a testament to this. To be honest, I’ve tied a $30

> shade
> canopy down with 10 inch yellow plastic tent stakes and had no
> problems at all
> the entire week. (see maintenance, below) Whatever stakes you use,
> they’ve got
> to be bomb proof. If one of your key stakes comes out during the

> whiteout
> you’re fucked. The wheel of your car or even a trailer hitch can be a
> great tie
> down point too.
> 
> The three main things to
> consider about ground anchors are

> 
> SOLIDEasy to remove on load outMarkeable (water bottles, tennis balls,
> pool
> noodle cut into chunks) or driven flush with the playa surface to
> prevent
> injury.
> 
> 

> 
> MAINTENANCE:
> 
> No matter what guy system
> you end up with or what ground anchors they are tied to, it all means
> nothing
> without regular maintenance. This one single thing is the second

> greatest
> source of destroyed shade at Burning Man after improper guying to
> begin with. Read
> this again: MAINTENANCE IS THE KEY TO KEEPING SHADE STANDING
> 
> 
> 
> There’s a lot going on out

> here and you’re sleep deprived, dehydrated, impaired, distracted, or
> otherwise
> not paying attention to little stuff like what’s going on with the guy
> system
> on your shade. Don’t make this mistake because it means giving the

> wind time to
> work on and destroy your shade.
> 
> 
> 
> Slack lines mean
> oscillation, oscillation means failure and collapse.
> 
> 
> 
> Each and every day,

> sometimes several times a day, you MUST walk around and inspect all of
> your guy
> lines. If they’re loose then retighten them and inspect the ground
> anchors too.
> Are they coming up out of the ground? Has the entire structure moved/

> slid
> sideways causing slack in some of the lines? Maybe the basic geometry
> of the
> entire structure has changed in some way. Physically LOOK at all the
> pieces
> that make up your shade; are they bending or distorting? Did one of

> them slip
> out of its connections? This is all basic common sense stuff, but
> unfortunately
> 4 days into Burning Man, common sense can be in short supply. How
> important is
> your shade to you? To me it’s right up there behind water so I spend a

> lot of
> time making sure my shade will hold up to Godzilla on meth, in the
> whiteout, in
> the dark.
> 
> 
> 
> TIE LINE MATERIALS. Almost
> ANY decent string will work for simple shade guy lines. You don’t need

> one
> million pound test Kevlar/spectra line.
> Basic parachute cord or even clothes line available everywhere will
> work
> just great. I like white because it’s easier to see at night. I have

> seen 1
> inch webbing ratchet straps used as well. They tend to oscillate in
> their own
> unique way in the wind, but they are easy and fast to re tighten and
> they are
> cheap.
> 

> 
> 
> KNOTS
> 
> Here are two knots that you
> MUST learn when tying shit down.
> 
> The Truckers Hitch allows
> you to adjust the tension on a line while it’s under tension. That

> means you
> can re tighten your guy lines without completely undoing them.
> 
> http://www.animated knots.com/ truckers/ index.php

> 
> 
> 
> and the tossed of ‘thrown’
> clove hitch. This knot allows you to precisely tension and set a line
> around a
> stake, pole, or a carabineer. Tied as a ‘slip version’ it is a very

> quick and
> secure way to fix the end of a line.
> 
> http://www.gorp. com/hiking- guide/travel- ta-hiking- sidwcmdev_
> 056181.html
> 
> 

> 
> Both of these knots mainly
> work at the bottom or anchor end of the guy line. Up top at the canopy
> all that
> matters is that the knot stays tied and can be untied on load out so
> I’m not so

> picky about what knot you use up there. “If you can’t tie a knot, tie
> a lot!”
> 
> 
> 
> FLAG YOUR GUY LINES!!
> Getting “clothes lined” at 3 in the morning going out for a pee sucks.

> Running
> into a guy line on your bike at full speed could cause serious injury.
> Our eyes
> are tuned to movement so tie little pieces of cloth, tape, or
> something that
> will flap in the breeze to your guy lines so that you and others can

> see and
> notice them both day and night.
> 
> SET UP YOUR SHADE AT HOME A
> COUPLE OF TIMES.
> 
> One of the biggest mistakes
> I’ve seen newbies make is buying a brand new shade canopy or tent and

> taking it
> out to the Black Rock for it’s first time set up. Don’t do that. Even
> if you
> have to go over to a local park and set it up a few times, get
> familiar with
> your shade BEFORE you leave home. Often time the factory stakes are

> completely
> useless. There’s not enough or even any tie line included, or other
> problems.
> (“pole A goes into pole B, um…. WTF is Pole B?!” get your stuff down
> to a
> system and include spare everything too. If you take an hour or two in

> advance
> of the event figuring this out you won’t have to do it drunk, in the
> white out,
> at night, alone. Hear that thumping sound? That’s Godzilla, he’s on a
> bender
> again…..

> 
> 
> 
> Everything in this document
> is basic common sense stuff.
> 
> Thanks for reading have a
> safe trip!
> 
> 
> 
> 
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