Standard 6 inch tent stakes are more than adequate for the tarp. Hogan
Stakes make fine 18" x 0.5" tapered steel stakes that are cheap
( $6.00) and perfect for the yurt itself. Way better than rebar. You
need this length to get a firm grip on the Playa....12" is definitely
not long enough. A small sledge hammer will drive it in nicely. Here's
some pics from 2009. 2010 added 2 sleeping nodes and 2 air
conditioners. Next year we'll havea balcony and a 2.5 story
addition !!  http://picasaweb.google.com/scottgeller/Hexayurt#

On Sep 20, 2:29 pm, chasomatic <[email protected]> wrote:
> I used straight rebar, and a rebar driver I made. The driver is a
> heavy piece of solid stock about 2" thick and 3' long. I taped the end
> to accept a piece of 1/2" rigid electrical conduit (not thinwall), and
> screwed a 11" piece of conduit into the hole. When you put the rebar
> in the conduit and slam the device down a few times the rebar is in
> the ground with 11" sticking out. I covered these with water bottles
> and glow sticks. Next year I plan on  placing the rebar stakes in the
> middle of each panel directly next to the hexayurt (between 2
> corners). Each tiedown point (6) will have lines to 2 pieces of rebar
> (except the door panel) and won't stick out at all. I'd like some
> feedback on this idea if anyone thinks it's interesting (maybe
> everyone does this and I just don't know).
>
> On Sep 15, 9:35 am, Zippy <[email protected]> wrote:
>
>
>
> > The original poster referred to tarp tie-downs (anchors), but the
> > responses seem to be talking about guy line anchors.  I'll respond on
> > both:
>
> > Tarp anchors: If I want to secure a tarp to the Playa surface, to be
> > used as a floor for a structure for example, I use simple smooth 6"
> > nails and nail down through each tarp eyelet, putting a backwards
> > angle on the nail so it puts tension on the tarp as it goes in.  I
> > nail them in all the way down, so they don't create a tripping hazard
> > and the head of the nail pinches the eyelet against the Playa
> > surface.  I've been doing this for 8 years and never had a problem.
> > The tarps hold down tight all week, and are easy to remove at weeks
> > end. Tent pegs also work, but depending on the ones you use, they are
> > harder to nail down flat than the regular 6" nails.
>
> > Guy line anchors:  I'm of the opinion that many people over-design
> > their guy line anchors at Burning Man, like putting 18 inch rebar
> > stakes in for a personal 2 man tent.  There are many, many threads out
> > there suggesting that this is what you need to do. That said, when in
> > doubt, over-design is always preferable to under-design on the Playa,
> > because there are serious potential safety issues at stake (wow ... a
> > nice unintended pun there!).
>
> > On Hammering: On of the key factors to establishing a solid guy line
> > anchor is hammering your stakes in arefully so as to disturb the
> > ground as little as possible, thus maximizing your purchase. When
> > people hammer sloppily, bending their stakes, and resetting them over
> > and over at different angles, the ground ends up being so disturbed
> > even an 18" stake can be rendered ineffective.  Here's what you do!:
> > set your stake on the ground at an appropriate back-angle ( I use
> > about 30 degrees) taking time to plan out the correct and final
> > location (you don't want to have to relocate it 4" away). Hold it
> > firmly with one hand, and use sharp, accurate blows with an
> > appropriately sized hammer, starting with a small hand sledge, and
> > moving to a larger sledge if necessary once you've established
> > alignment.  If your not good with a sledge, that is okay, but recruit
> > someone who is!
>
> > On Stakes.  For my hexayurt I used six 12" #5 rebar stakes (in the US,
> > the gauge number represents the number of eights of an inch, so #5
> > rebar is 5/8", #4 is half inch etc.). The stakes were custom welded
> > with a tie down hook and a hammering plate.  Having a good quality
> > stake like this is important.  First, a hammering plate (1" x 1.25" x
> > 3/32" steel plate) ensures your hammer blows transmit more accurately,
> > and your hammer doesn't skip off your rebar end (and hit your other
> > wrist (ouch!)).  Second, having a shorter length (12") and a thicker
> > gauge (5/8") reduces the chance of your stake wandering or bending as
> > it goes in, thus maximizing it's pull-out strength. Third, because #5
> > steel is stronger than the more commonly used #4 bar (1/2 inch), and
> > because the stakes are shorter than the commonly used 18" stakes, they
> > are easy to remove by hammering on the stake sideways gently in all
> > directions (1/2" rebar will bend), then rotating them (with vice grips
> > if necessary) as you pull them out of the ground.  They are only 12",
> > but their properties allow them to be hammered in almost all the way
> > down, minimizing the tripping hazard and maximizing pull-out strength.
>
> > My stakes were made by a long time Burner, brilliant welded steel
> > artist and very good friend in the Northwest. He lives on a very
> > modest income and designed these stakes for my purposes, but because I
> > was so happy with them, he now makes and sells them for $4.00 each.
> > That's more expensive than the ones linked in this thread, but they
> > are also much better, and he does high quality welding and he is a
> > hell of a good guy.  He puts the quality of his work ahead of his
> > profits. If anyone is interested, let me know and I can put you in
> > contact with him.
>
> > On Sep 14, 5:46 pm, Rhid <[email protected]> wrote:
>
> > > I rolled the tarp in on itself till snug up against the walls of the
> > > hexayurt then taped it in place... it makes a water tight seal..
>
> > > Icarus wrote:
> > > > How is everyone anchoring their tarps to the playa? Regular tent pegs?

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