The glimmerings of a masterpiece. Zig.
Questions:
Do propane hotwater heaters have a central, vertical, "pipe" for
exhausting waste gases?
Why? - Because if they do, we have a perfect tool to adapt to the highly
insulated, highly efficient, "rocket stove" prototype. .
Do commonly used "oil type" heat transfer mediums (cooking, hydraulic,
used crankcase) exceed solder melt temperatures for solders used in car
radiators?
Why? - Have to be able to make failproof pipe connections with barefoot peasant
tech. Also water medium is a PITA. Freesez, pressurises, explodes. It doesn't
usually contaminate the environment. Oil won't explode in the absence of
adequate oxygen. Water sure will.
Is there a cheap "velocity accelerator" (pump) that is not externaly
powered, that could be used to move "medium" from boiler to radiator?
Why? - Heat rising principle is ok if there's big diam pipes, vertical rise
(not semi horizontal) and more head = better circulation. BUT it is limited.
It is entirely possible that the most "barefoot" approach ie. hot air might be
the most practical.
I am known to be easily transported into uncontrollable longlasting spasms of
ecstasy by elegant ideas and a smooth line.
Does anyone know the intricacies of heat exchange mediums? I recall reading
that energy required to raise the temperature of water by x deg/unit mass is
very high compared to other materials. How bout oil and air?
number one Kooona
>>>>>>>>>>>>>> ZIG wrote:
I'd think about using a hybrid hydronic/hot air system.
http://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Hydronics
Setup a hot water heating system "in a box", well outside the yurt.
This could be as simple as an insulated cookpot with a low flame
underneath, but probably better would be a small propane water heater
since it has an integrated thermostat. To get more efficiency, put a
thick insulating blanket around it. The radiant heater (could be a
scrap automotive radiator) is in its own duct nearby, and the other
side of that duct is connected to your space. The pump could be an
automotive coolant pump. Using a water heater, you might want to make
sure the tank is vented to avoid expansion problems.
You blow air through the duct, which is attached to the yurt somewhere
near the base with flexible, insulated ducting to heat the space. To
avoid noise, perhaps situate the fan inside the duct right in front of
the radiator, or just use the fan that came with it :)
This avoids any trouble with CO or CO2 if the source air is ducted
from somewhere above and away from the heater
--- On Sun, 4/10/11, Zig <[email protected]> wrote:
> From: Zig <[email protected]>
> Subject: [hexayurt] Re: Stove question
> To: "hexayurt" <[email protected]>
> Date: Sunday, April 10, 2011, 7:30 PM
>
> I'd think about using a hybrid hydronic/hot air system.
>
> http://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Hydronics
>
> Setup a hot water heating system "in a box", well outside
> the yurt.
> This could be as simple as an insulated cookpot with a low
> flame
> underneath, but probably better would be a small propane
> water heater
> since it has an integrated thermostat. To get more
> efficiency, put a
> thick insulating blanket around it. The radiant heater
> (could be a
> scrap automotive radiator) is in its own duct nearby, and
> the other
> side of that duct is connected to your space. The pump
> could be an
> automotive coolant pump. Using a water heater, you
> might want to make
> sure the tank is vented to avoid expansion problems.
>
> You blow air through the duct, which is attached to the
> yurt somewhere
> near the base with flexible, insulated ducting to heat the
> space. To
> avoid noise, perhaps situate the fan inside the duct right
> in front of
> the radiator, or just use the fan that came with it :)
>
> This avoids any trouble with CO or CO2 if the source air is
> ducted
> from somewhere above and away from the heater.
>
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