P.S. Two more things re: windows


1. Don't put a window on the south facing side of your yurt. North side is 
best. Then it will never get any direct sun but will let in daylight.

2. I suggested about four years ago using a water-filled quart or gallon 
glass jar sealed into a north-facing roof panel -- center the jar in the 
hold so that an equal amount extends above the roof as does below. You can 
seal it in with Liquid Nails (one of the two versions that is foam friendly) 
or wire it in with tiny holes for the wire caging running through the roof 
around the outside of the hole you cut for the jar. So you loop the wire 
through the roof enough times to fully support the jar. A gallon cider jar 
filled will weight about 9 pounds. (Once wired in place, seal on the outside 
around the jar and over the wire holes.)

I'm sure I wasn't the first to come up with this idea. Just this last year, 
someone "invented" it in South America.

For permanent installs in frigid climates you'd want to fill the jar with a 
50-50 antifreeze mix.

What happens, is the water-filled jar, with equal portions above the roof 
and below the ceiling, catches anyt existing light and refracts it into the 
room. Including moonlight at night.  Locating it on a north-facing roof 
panel reduces the amount but does not stop it from catching direct sunlight 
for much of the day.

3. I know Cody and others have mentioned this. Just want to reiterate. If 
using a swamp cooler you must have two things for efficiency:

1. An intake source of low-humidity air.
2. A substantial exit vent for damp (cooled) air.

Evaporative coolers only work when the air inside is dry enough to quickly 
evaporate the added, cooler, moist air coming out of the swamp cooler. If 
you don't exhaust the excess moisture from the room, and don't have some 
fresh dry air entering the room, you won't have cooling. You'll have 
miserable tropical humidity.

Hope that helps,
-- ken winston caine
----- Original Message ----- 
From: "D.V.Rogers" <[email protected]>
To: <[email protected]>
Sent: Monday, July 04, 2011 6:26 PM
Subject: Re: [hexayurt] Windows


what works very well as a simple and sealable window system for the
hexayurt is cheap male/female PVC plumbing fittings. 100mm and 150mm
(4" and 6") in diameter. Attached is a .jpg of these components. In
Australia they are around $8-$10 a pair from the Home Depot equivalent
called Bunnings. cut hole in ply on thermax sheet and tape to the
outside (or seal with silicon) with female cap on the inside of
hexayurt. its not a window per say but lets light in and can be
sealable when rain or dust storms appear..

/dvr

=====================
http://disastr.urbanaction.org
=====================

On Tue, Jul 5, 2011 at 7:19 AM, Jack Senechal <[email protected]> 
wrote:
> I've used metal tape to fix a plexiglass panel to the outside, and it
> worked great. You could do two for better insulation, one inside and
> one out. And if you have two panels of plexiglass, you can bolt
> through them for extra solidity. But I think that might be overkill
> for the Playa. Having the cutout in there to block the sun during the
> part of the day when it shines in the window directly would probably
> be a good idea.
>
> Regarding ventilation, I suspect that it would work well to generate
> an updraft by installing a black chimney pipe in the roof. That would
> draw air up when the sun shines on it, pulling it in through your
> vents below.
>
> As an added bonus, you could put a damp cloth over the vent so air has
> to pass through it, which would cool it down and moisturize the air.
> You'd need a course fabric for that, something that's absorbent and
> loosely woven so air could pass through well. You could drape the
> bottom into a bucket of water, and it would wick it up continuously.
>
> I haven't actually tried those ventilation ideas to work out the kinks
> yet, but I intend to do that this year. The principles behind it are
> sound though :)
>
> Jack
>
> On Mon, Jul 4, 2011 at 11:20 AM, Milt Fisher <[email protected]> wrote:
>> I was planning to tape the filters to the outside after setting up. That 
>> way
>> I could replace the cutouts during dust storms if too much dust came 
>> through
>> the filters.
>> Did you just have one filter? Was that enough to provide ventilation?
>> On Jul 4, 2011, at 9:44 AM, Steve Upstill <[email protected]> wrote:
>>
>> Don't know if you're headed for the Playa, but I liked my hyurt nice and
>> dark. I had great results with a furnace filter: cut a hole just small
>> enough to hold the filter firmly. Bonus: you can still fold/stack your
>> panels.
>> Cheers,
>> Steve
>> --
>> Before you criticize a man, walk a mile in his shoes. That way, when you 
>> do
>> criticize him, you'll be a mile away and you'll have his shoes.
>>
>> On Jul 4, 2011, at 9:03 AM, Milt Fisher wrote:
>>>
>>> I'd like some recommendations for hexayurt windows. I'm not interested 
>>> in
>>> framed, sliding windows with screens, just some plastic of some kind 
>>> taped
>>> over a hole in the panel. Any recommendations on what kind of plastic to
>>> use? Thin plexiglas maybe? Or perhaps flexible vinyl?
>>
>>
>> Any other ideas for simple windows?
>> I'm planning to tape the plastic to the outside and hinge the panel 
>> cutout
>> into the window opening so we can close it when we want darkness.
>> Thanks,
>> Milt
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