why dont you pour them in place? you could lay down your form, plastic with concrete release on it and 2 x whatever framing.
you place the frames in position for your structure on the foundation. lay in your rebar skeleton, i would suggest 1/2 inch rebar around the edges, with screening on the bottom and top, and a simple rebar frame. then pump your papercrete after it hardens, all you do is "tilt up" your finished piece in place.. sure it is heavy, but you have to move them anyways, right? once you get the walls up, you embed another "strap" of rebar pour a slip form on top of that to create a "ring" of concrete on top of the upright blocks. this will form a structural support for your roof panels, which you build a temporary wooden form for, and rebar our and it hardens in lace. once you get the initial 6 inches, the rest is easy, just plaster it on. do you "really" need it a foot thick? On Thu, Jul 28, 2011 at 12:28 PM, ken winston caine < [email protected]> wrote: > ** > Hi Cody: > > Just learned late last night that there is indeed an affordable way to pump > "fidobe" papercrete -- using a 3" trash pump. So maybe I WILL be able to > pour upright slipforms in place. Just didn't want to do it a bucket at a > time, especially when the bucket has to be lifted above my waist and > shoulders and carried up a ladder and will probably weigh about 40 lbs per > wet bucket load. > > Pouring 4x8 by 6 inches thick forms lying flat on the ground is much easier > than the bucket-carrying system. Let them cure for two weeks, Stack them on > pallets and tarp them, then tilt them up into place when ready. > > Can back the mixer right up to the laid out forms and open the shoot and > let the stuff pour into them. > > But pumping 4'x8'x1' or 4x4x1 upright slipforms in place might be a > labor-saver. Eliminate some steps, as you suggested. Still will have to wait > a couple weeks between rounds for the forms to cure before adding the next > round atop the last. Soit would slow things down that way. Can't just pour > all the wall forms needed in one week and wait two weeks for them to cure. > And then start putting them into place on the frame. > > Even if pumping into upright slipforms, would still need to pour the roof > triangles flat on the ground and then lift them into place when cured. > > -- The adventure continues. > > This is going to be an innovative hexayurt! > > -- ken winston caine > > ----- Original Message ----- > *From:* Cody Firestone <[email protected]> > *To:* [email protected] > *Sent:* Wednesday, July 27, 2011 9:53 AM > *Subject:* Re: [hexayurt] re: questions re: my plans -- was re: Harbor > Freight has hot knives... and <snip? > > OK, so now I understand . > > So using the "Papercrete" and some steel framing, you intend to build > a Hexayurt for a feasibility study, not necessarily to move in as a primary > structure. Right? > > Have you considered the use of Papercrete mix in a ferro-concrete matrix? > > I was checking out the photos, so it looks like after the big blocks > of Papercrete are laid on top of a wooden or steel structural frame, you > would cover with chicken wire, then smooth over with a more conventional > type of concrete to finish it out. The photo caption said he also used a > layer of poly sheeting under the blocks for water proofing. > > SO, not having worked with Papercrete directly i have a few questions to > ask, not that i need actual answers, but things that come to mind while > planning to build with this stuff: > > 1. What is the waster absorption of Papercrete after it is cured. Would it > be absorbent, increasing it's weight significantly and causing a structural > collapse? > > 2. If it DOES absorb water, what waterproofing material would you use? > > 3. Ferro-Cement technology could build your roof much lighter and with more > artistic possibilities. Basically you build a chicken wire and rebar "cage" > then press concrete into the matrix. It hardens and there you are. > > If you are doing this on a roof, you use burlap or builders canvas on the > underside to keep it from "slumping" and you use a very "dry" mix of > concrete. > > If using the Hexayurt design, i think you could build a rebar > framed Hexayurt panel, then wire them together in position. THEN fill them > with Papercrete with a topping of regular cement to seal it up. > > you could make the thickness whatever you wanted, and it would not require > the two step process of forming the "stones" and then building > a separate steel frame to put it up. > > Since this is a permanent structure, you might as well go ahead and do the > ferro-cement. > > the Hexayurt would look more "dome" like. > > > > > > > > -- > You received this message because you are subscribed to the Google Groups > "hexayurt" group. > To post to this group, send email to [email protected]. > To unsubscribe from this group, send email to > [email protected]. > For more options, visit this group at > http://groups.google.com/group/hexayurt?hl=en. > > -- > You received this message because you are subscribed to the Google Groups > "hexayurt" group. > To post to this group, send email to [email protected]. > To unsubscribe from this group, send email to > [email protected]. > For more options, visit this group at > http://groups.google.com/group/hexayurt?hl=en. > -- You received this message because you are subscribed to the Google Groups "hexayurt" group. 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