Chaosmatic -- I'm not able to find your solar-powered fountain cooler at 
Harbor Freight. Do you by any chance have a lot number (I think that's what 
HF calls their item numbers)?

Best,
ken winston caine

----- Original Message ----- 
From: "Chasomatic" <[email protected]>
To: "hexayurt" <[email protected]>
Sent: Monday, August 01, 2011 1:08 PM
Subject: [hexayurt] Re: Windows and COOLING on the PLAYA


Thanks Mark, this is exactly what I was thinking about although I
missed the idea of using the hexayurt for the last side. Luckily I
haven't cut the panel yet so I can still use the idea and make a
bigger cooler-cooler. Last year with this type of SC my hexayurt
(standard 8') went down to the low 70's. I'm hoping the cooler will do
a little better seeing as it is sooo small. What do you think? Did you
measure the temp?

Charlie

On Jul 28, 10:35 am, Mark S <[email protected]> wrote:
> HeyChasomatic
> We built an impromptu chest on the side of our yurt in 2009, and it
> was most definitely worth it.
>
> If I recall, we took a 4'x6' panel (result of a cutting mishap - our
> first yurt), and cut it into 4 pieces:
> 4'x2'
> 4'x2'
> 2'x2'
> 2'x2'
> _______
> |______|
> |______|
> |___|___|
>
> With the remains of the fourth tape roll, we boxed in an area against
> the shadier side of the yurt, and put a lengthwise hinge 2/3 back
> along the top panel. Took all of 20 minutes, and our chests were
> puffed out for days. :D
>
> In went the coolers for the duration of the burn.
>
> It went a long way to extending the life of our precious ice. The temp
> in there was noticeable cooler, as long as we resisted going in/out of
> it too often. Once the box was opened, the inside temp very quickly
> equalized with the ambient temp. Still, it kept the sun off in the
> afternoons. (*terrible* visual herehttp://prntscr.com/2g997)
>
> If you've got a scrap panel to spare, I highly recommend it.
>
> -Mark
>
> On Jul 21, 3:39 pm,Chasomatic<[email protected]> wrote:
>
> > I use the Home Depot bucket style of swamp cooler.
>
> > My pumps come from Harbor Freight and they're Solar powered fountain
> > pumps for outdoor gardens ($19.95). They have a pressure head of at
> > least 3 feet and their own solar panel. Net power consumption ZERO!
> > My fan comes from Frozen CPU, I can't remember the exact numbers right
> > now but it's specially designed to give a column of air not the normal
> > dispersal pattern. It draws 0.7 amps to run and puts out around 120
> > cfm ($31 with shipping). It shoots the air out of the pipe.
>
> > I think my total power use will be about 1.0 (.3 pump+.7 fan) amps per
> > hour. Last year I didn't run the SC very late into the evening but it
> > may be hotter this year. Maybe 8.5 watts per hour from my 10 watt
> > solar panel/battery. It's close, but I may be a balanced power
> > system.
>
> > My first effort for this year's swamp cooler was a little weak, but I
> > still have it. Has anyone built a chest from Hexayurt panels to keep
> > beer cool? I think my small SC would be enough to work but I don't
> > know how to calculate the potential temperature drop (would it be
> > worth it?).
>
> > any ideas
>
> > On Jul 10, 8:20 am, Richard Ginn <[email protected]> wrote:
>
> > > another way to have water flow down over the material is with a large
> > > reservoir (plastic garbage can) above it that you refill by hand 
> > > (bucket) as
> > > needed. 50 gallons would trickle down all night maybe?
>
> > > On Sun, Jul 10, 2011 at 3:31 AM, ken winston caine <
>
> > > [email protected]> wrote:
> > > > **
> > > > Pretty amazing amount of pumping for 6 watts, Richard.
>
> > > > Still, if I'm running it 24 hours a day (along with the fan) during 
> > > > the
> > > > current 100-plus degree days and high 70s to high 80s nights until 
> > > > about 4
> > > > a.m. when finally it starts to cool down a little, I'm using 282 
> > > > watts a
> > > > day. That's 1/5 of the total electricity I have available each 
> > > > non-overcast
> > > > day from my solar system. That's a pretty big bite and I can 
> > > > probably afford
> > > > it only a day or two a week and keep the system healthy.
>
> > > > It's NOTHING if you're on the grid. And a wonderful savings compared 
> > > > to
> > > > typical pumps.
>
> > > > Best,
> > > > ken winston caine
>
> > > > P.S. Am going to look into it, anyway. Because it would be really 
> > > > nice to
> > > > be able to use it if only from 2 p.m. to 8 p.m. or so when the 
> > > > inside of my
> > > > RV heats up into the middle 90s most days this time of year. My 
> > > > self-wicking
> > > > coolers bring the air right in front of me and on my face down to 
> > > > the mid
> > > > 80s while I'm working at my desk, which is much more tolerable than 
> > > > mid 90s.
> > > > But if I could force more water into the pads, and add pads, I could 
> > > > get
> > > > better cooling.
>
> > > > Have been meaning to hook up the Kill-a-Watt meter up to an aquarium 
> > > > pump
> > > > and see what kind of wattage it draws. If it's less than 6 watts, 
> > > > I'll
> > > > report that here. (Doubt that it will be.)
>
> > > > ----- Original Message -----
> > > > *From:* Richard Ginn <[email protected]>
> > > > *To:* [email protected]
> > > > *Sent:* Saturday, July 09, 2011 10:21 PM
> > > > *Subject:* Re: [hexayurt] Windows and COOLING on the PLAYA
>
> > > > For 6 watts you can power a 12-volt CPU water cooling pump that is 
> > > > rated at
> > > > 132 gallons per hour, and then you don't have to wick the water at 
> > > > all:
>
> > > >http://www.frozencpu.com/products/6073/ex-pmp-53/Danger_Den_DD-CPX1_1...
>
> > > > On Tue, Jul 5, 2011 at 5:11 PM, ken winston caine <
> > > > [email protected]> wrote:
>
> > > >> Jack, I've experimented with developing a 7-watt, self-wicking 
> > > >> swamp
> > > >> cooler
> > > >> that works pretty well.
>
> > > >> Haven't experimented with EVERY fabric known to man, but did find,
> > > >> surprisingly, that absorbant paper towels tended to wick better 
> > > >> than about
> > > >> any cloth fabric I could test.But even., then, they tend to wick up 
> > > >> only
> > > >> about 6 inches above the water surface.
>
> > > >> What really helps is to hang them with open pleats facing the air 
> > > >> source
> > > >> and
> > > >> allowing a tiny bit of air space between each hanging wick. That 
> > > >> allows
> > > >> the
> > > >> air to pass between them a tiny bit. If using a high-efficiency,
> > > >> low-wattage
> > > >> 12v fan made for use in RVs and campers, having the open end of the 
> > > >> pleat
> > > >> facing the fan's exhaust also helps the pleats balloon a bit and 
> > > >> speeds
> > > >> evaporation.
>
> > > >> My design provides 8 to 10 degree cooling for about 5 feet in front 
> > > >> of the
> > > >> swamp cooler exhaust. So it's a personal cooler, not a room cooler.
> > > >> Although
> > > >> it does noticeably help cool the room a tiny bit, so long as you 
> > > >> have
> > > >> fresh
> > > >> air vents in the room bringing in occasional super dry gusts. 
> > > >> That's when
> > > >> you notice the moisture evaporating in areas of the room other than
> > > >> directly
> > > >> in front of the cooler.
>
> > > >> The more folds of wicking material you can fit in your box (if 
> > > >> buidling a
> > > >> swamp cooler) the more cooling effect you'll get.
>
> > > >> Have yet to experiment with putting the fan on the top of the box, 
> > > >> ponting
> > > >> down at the wicks and water tray on the bottom. Am planning to test 
> > > >> that
> > > >> next.
>
> > > >> Have tried quite a few variations. Have found that the fan BEHIND 
> > > >> the
> > > >> wicks,
> > > >> blowing air through them, provides better cooling than locating the 
> > > >> fan in
> > > >> front of the wicks so that it *draws* the air through the wicks.
>
> > > >> Also have found that having a larger intake opening than exhaust 
> > > >> opening
> > > >> seems to help a bit, too. About a 2::1 ratio has seemed best in my
> > > >> experiments.
>
> > > >> You can do these with cardboard boxes and duct tape and rubber maid
> > > >> shoe-box size plastic containers.
>
> > > >> The type of fan I use is this:
>
> > > >>http://www.campingworld.com/shopping/item/fan-tastic-endless-breeze-1...
>
> > > >> I also found at the end of summer about six years ago at a Wal Mart 
> > > >> in
> > > >> Albuquerque a season closeout price on Wal-Mart's "Ozark Trails" 
> > > >> version
> > > >> of
> > > >> this fan and bought seven of them for $4 each and am using those in 
> > > >> two of
> > > >> my swamp cooler. They actually use less wattage than the Endless 
> > > >> Breeze,
> > > >> but
> > > >> push slightly less air through, too.
>
> > > >> May have been four years ago I wrote here about Buckminster 
> > > >> Fuller's
> > > >> proven
> > > >> "cooling effect," but have not yet heard of anyone experimenting 
> > > >> with it
> > > >> on
> > > >> the playa with hexayurts.
>
> > > >> Fuller proved that putting a rain-capped stovepipe in the center of 
> > > >> the
> > > >> roof
> > > >> of his circular dymation house or at the apex of the roof of a 
> > > >> geodesic
> > > >> dome, and then having open vents about 1 foot above floor level 
> > > >> around the
> > > >> walls of the building created an amazing, counter-intuitive cooling
> > > >> effect.
> > > >> The ratio of low-wall vent airflow capacity to roof vent was about 
> > > >> 4 to 1,
> > > >> if I recall correctly.
>
> > > >> What happens -- and Fuller demonstrated this multiple times, 
> > > >> including in
> > > >> a
> > > >> dome at the equator built for the U.S. military -- is that as the 
> > > >> ground
> > > >> around the building and the walls of the building heat up as the 
> > > >> sun beats
> > > >> down, this creates a flow of warm air rising around the outside of 
> > > >> the
> > > >> building. That rising air creates suction at the floor level vents,
> > > >> pulling
> > > >> air out of the building. That causes a rush of air to be pulled 
> > > >> down into
> > > >> the building through the roof vent.
>
> > > >> Fuller said this phenomenon extends for hundreds of feet into the 
> > > >> air
> > > >> above
> > > >> the building. So you have hot air rising in a circle around the 
> > > >> building
> > > >> and
> > > >> COOL air from higher in the atmosphere hundreds of feet above the 
> > > >> building
> > > >> being sucked down the center of the invisible column.
>
> > > >> The cooling effect was commonly reported to be in the range of 20 
> > > >> degrees.
> > > >> That is, the air coming in through the root pipe and dropping on 
> > > >> the room
> > > >> had an effect of cooling the room by about 20 degrees from its 
> > > >> temperature
> > > >> with the vents all closed.
>
> > > >> Pretty amazing. Completely passive (other than opening and closing 
> > > >> vents).
> > > >> And, other than the initial cost to build (the pvc or stove pipe 
> > > >> and rain
> > > >> cap and dampers), free.
>
> > > >> I say that this is counter intuitive because normally we expect 
> > > >> interior
> > > >> heat to rise and exit through a roof vent. And normally it does. 
> > > >> And that
> > > >> certainly helps exhaust heat from the room or building. But it 
> > > >> doesn't
> > > >> bring
> > > >> in a nice, steady, flow of cool air that drops on the room from the
> > > >> ceiling.
>
> > > >> Hope that helps inspire someone to experiment and report their 
> > > >> results.
>
> > > >> Best,
> > > >> ken winston caine
>
> > > >> ----- Original Message -----
>
> ...
>
> read more ยป

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