Am probably going to forgo the foam altogether and just build a conduit hexayurt frame (modified and larger than what we're currently doing and with a higher pitched roof. Am leaning toward a 24' diameter, two story or 1-1/2 story high hex shape. 1-1/2 is probably tall enough to have a decent-sized, comfortably usable loft.).
Once the conduit frame is up, then I'll cover its interior in scrap fabric and scrap cardboard and heavy paper, etc., and (in stages) spray a hard structural shell coat, locking into the conduit frame. Then build up with natural insulations (fidobe claypapercrete type materials that I can pump and pour into upright, in-place forms on the walls, and that I can pump/pour into roof forms laid flat on the ground). And once I have the desired thickness of about a foot -- which should give me somewhere between 36R and 50R for walls and ceiling -- spray an exterior hard-shell over it all. Am also designing conduit, bolt on eaves/supports and will be integrating those so I can have good guttering for water catchment. Those will bolt directly onto the conduit wall frames and will be built up and sprayed as a roof extension and as part of the whole structure. Going to try to learn one of these free online CAD drawing programs so I can get away from my hand-drawn sketches and be able to easily share ideas and get input on their feasibility and structural integrity. Anyone have suggestions for the one with least learning curve and greatest ease of use? Originally was thinking of using foamboard just so I would have a structure up in a day or so. And was going to use that as the underlayment and structure -- instead of using welded conduit to define the shape and serve as initial structure. Aside on welding conduit: (Welding conduit is nasty and life-threatening. You have to strip the zinc galvanizing material off first for at least 6" around every weld. And that requires hydrochloric acid. You have to wear a respirator during the whole process to avoid the lethal fumes produced -- both from skinning the galvanizing materials and from welding and still potentially heating some galvanizing materials. Just a warning to anyone thinking of trying this at home. You can do it. But take all the precautions. And study up on it first.) Welded connections are much stronger and lasting than bolted ones. The connections are the weak point in just about ANY structure. Now we return you to our regular programming: Sizing, cutting, welding conduit will take mucho mucho longer than hot- knife cutting foamboard sheets to appropriate sizes and angles. If using foamboard, Steve, was planning to attach pieces using Liquid Nails Heavy Duty Construction Adhesive. The "Heavy Duty" version of Liquid Nails is said to bond permanently with foam and supposedly is tacky adhesive in 5 minutes and well set up in 30. That doesn't give a tension ring, but the bond might be so integral that a tension ring is unnecessary. Not sure. That's speculation. Tension ring can still be added. Haven't checked the Albuquerque stores, KK, but the only two kinds of foamboard available at Home Depot in Santa Fe currently are the Foamular -- at $26 per 2" thick sheet -- and the non-foil-coated EPS whiteboard at $16 per 2-inch sheet. So I was wondering, why not use the cheaper stuff since I'm only using it to hold the shape of the building while I hard-shell spray it with a mortar sprayer. (www.mortarsprayer.com) There is a huge issue with getting any kind of mud to stick to various forms of poly. (Hadn't considered that the same issue would apply to tape, Steve; that's interesting. How did you solve that eventually, or did you guys give up?) My understanding -- based on advice from Nolan Scheid at www.mortarsprayer.com -- is that adding acrylic to the mix makes it much more likely that the foam will not only like it a lot, but become attached to it. So was figuring I would be experimenting with various mixes of cheap, powdered acrylic paints. (Which also might add interesting color tinting of my choosing to the mud mix -- although this would be the first, thin coat -- an adhesion coat -- which would be covered over by later, thicker coats. So I'd only enjoy the color for a few moments or day or two at most.) (Nolan uses flooring acrylic.) And Nolan suggested sprinkling or otherwise laying on fibers of various sorts including straw and strips of cloth onto the first wet, sticky coats. Hopefully that helps someone else. He also uses a texture sprayer for the first thin adhesive coats. (We were specifically discussing getting sprayed fidobe or cement to adhere to inflated poly sheeting in arch-shaped forms. But the same advice can be extended to any adhesion resistant poly surface. Once that initial thin sticky coat is firmly attached to the poly, then you can begin building up thicker, heavier coats. If using portland cement mixes in your mud, it becomes a structural shell, when hardened, at a relatively thin thickness when creating arches. For instance, Nolan said, "When using this approach with cement, fiber acrylic and vermiculite, once it about 3/8” thick the shell is strong. Once the shell is strong, you can switch from a texture sprayer to a stucco sprayer and start building the structure thickness much faster." I'll be experimenting with this process with the hexayurt shape on one building going up over the next two months. And the larger building -- which may not get underway until late Spring 2012 -- will probably use the inflated arches design that Sri Ananda Sarvasri uses. (http:// planetaryrenewal.org/ipr/ultralc.html) May still use some foam board to form a super small structure -- such as a 4'x4'x8' tall battery room for my solar power system. And / or a small shed building for storing tools and my generator. And will experiment then with spraying foamboard and seeing how well I can get a structural shell mix of mud to stick and firm up. Seems like a really quick, simple way to build a small shed, doesn't it? Another adhesion and strengthening trick I read recently was to wrap each piece of shaped foam in wire or nylon window-screen netting. This is used in the construction fascia pieces. Is said to strengthen the finished product and make them impervious to beak pecks from birds, as well as increasing the ability to get cement stuccos to easily adhere to the foam. So, for the most part, in my current project, I guess I'm forgoing foam altogether for the main buildings. One of the other reasons I was considering using foam board was related to the speed of construction with it. I was just imagining how satisfying and motivating it would be to see a whole building shell take form on my land in a day or two. (Just the tied-down, glued together foamboards, with windows and door openings cut out. From leveled site to building in *poof* a day. Guess I'll miss that thrill.) Since I'm doing a permanent building, I don't need to make it go up in minutes or use potentially toxic materials or spend the more than $1,000 it was going to cost if I made the initial structure of Foamular. Hope at least some of this is useful. Best, ken winston caine On Aug 2, 11:16 pm, Steve Upstill <[email protected]> wrote: > I helped a friend build a yurt out of 2" styro boards. The structure was > fine, but we found them almost impossible to tape. Nothing we tried would > stick. This was in New Zealand; there may be better exotics around here, and > I have had a suggestion from a scenic artist for a coating that might do the > trick. But understand that it's a problem that needs to be solved. > > Spray-coating them sounds like a fine application if you can get them to hold > together long enough. > > Cheers, > Steve > -- > First Law of Corporate Machination: > You can achieve anything if you don't care who gets the credit. > > On Aug 2, 2011, at 6:07 PM, ken winston caine wrote: > > > > > > > > > Couple questions: > > > 1. Please remind me of why (other than environmental toxicity and > > flammability) early on you rejected using the 2" thick white (EPS) > > polystyrene foam boards in favor of the polyiso foamboards? > > > 2. If your only choices -- as are mine locally -- are between EPS and XPS, > > which would you choose and why? (As in > >http://www.homedepot.com/h_d1/N-5yc1v/R-202090328/h_d2/ProductDisplay... > > vs. > >http://www.homedepot.com/h_d1/N-5yc1v/R-100320352/h_d2/ProductDisplay..., > > for instance. > > > 3. Was an argument against EPS its lack of rigidity? > > > 3. Was it water permeability? I understand that the EPS styro sops it up > > (and loses insulating ability in the process) and that XPS doesn't. > > > 4. If you were going to throw up a quickie small building and would be > > encasing the foam boards in fidobe papercrete and a fibrous-cement-like > > shell in and out, would you still rule out the less expensive white styro > > boards for the initial building? Or would you forgo foam altogether? > > > Thanks, > > ken winston caine > > > -- > > You received this message because you are subscribed to the Google Groups > > "hexayurt" group. > > To post to this group, send email to [email protected]. > > To unsubscribe from this group, send email to > > [email protected]. > > For more options, visit this group > > athttp://groups.google.com/group/hexayurt?hl=en. -- You received this message because you are subscribed to the Google Groups "hexayurt" group. To post to this group, send email to [email protected]. To unsubscribe from this group, send email to [email protected]. For more options, visit this group at http://groups.google.com/group/hexayurt?hl=en.
