Thanks a lot for all the answer phil, I plan on using a metal roof because the the snow but I wanted to make sure that it would be collapsing under my 230lbs. For the leaks and seals, yep silicone at the bottom, metal flashing, etc... and I plan to have conduits for the electrical cables (12v) for my LED battery & solar power lights.
-- Fabien On Wed, Sep 28, 2011 at 7:36 PM, Phil Dirt <[email protected]> wrote: > @ Pichard, > > If you plan to rip 4x8 sheets of plywood or OSB into 2x8' sheets to > make the side walls 6' high, you'll want to buy some Z flashing to fit > between the 4' and 2' lengths of sheeting. This is to prevent water > from draining into the yurt. You can supplement this with a bead of > silicone caulking when you assemble the panels. If you don't like the > look of the galvanized sheet metal you can cover it with a strip of > 1x3" trim. Would also be a good idea to apply weather stripping to the > bottoms of the side walls to keep out drafts and add a galvanized > flashing along the base of the outside walls to channel water away > from the structure. > > I think you also mean 2x4" studs spaced 16" on center, not beams. If > you say 2x4 beams at the lumber yard they will think you're funny. > And yes, 16" OC is good structural spacing and will allow for standard- > width insulation. You should also plan to sheet rock and tape the > interior to avoid inhaling the fiberglass insulation. > > 1) By squaring off the walls I assume you mean getting the 60º angles > to fit properly. This can be done on a table saw or with a Skilsaw. > Just set your angle on each end stud to 30º and when you fit the walls > together they will meet at 60º. The studs used for the top and bottom > plates on each wall and all peripheral edges of the roof triangles > should also be mitered at 30º. If this sounds like too much trouble, > better to give up now than to waste a lot of time and money building a > structure that could fail catastrophically. Learning how to miter 30º > angle cuts is not difficult if you have the right tools and can find > someone to show you how to do it. > > 2) I'd prefab the mitered studs on the roof triangles, then build a > temporary center post from a piece of 2x2 and a hexagonal cut piece of > plywood scrap with a center hole drilled just large enough to fit over > the 2x2 post. Slide that hexagon support up to where you want it and > set it in place with a self-tapping screw. You can always raise or > lower the height as needed, and add more screws as you add more > triangular roof sections. Once all the roof sections are in place they > should be able to hold their own weight just by the pressure of the > mitered angles transferring the weight down through the walls and to > the ground. This is part of the reason why the mitered edges are so > important. Screw the mitered edges of the roof sections together and > you can remove the center post. > > 3) I don't see why not if you cut your miters properly. If it can't > hold your weight you did a lousy job on the miters. More motivation to > cut your miters correctly. When properly built, the hexayurt will > transfer all loads down through the walls to the ground, so the > structure is self-supporting in a manner similar to a geodesic dome or > pyramid. > > I don't see a problem with a metal roof, but again, if your miters are > cut properly there's really no need for a metal roof. > > Phil Dirt > > On Sep 26, 4:09 pm, Pichard Kempo Karate <[email protected]> > wrote: >> Hello Hexayurters :D >> >> this year I had an hexayurt on the playa and now I want to build one >> made of 2X4, plywood, with real weather protection such as tyvex, >> shingles, etc... >> >> Overall it is not that complicated, build 8 framed walls that are 8ft >> long by 6ft width, 2X4 beams spaced 16 inches. >> Same thing with the roof, pre fabricate and put the shingles on it >> then assemble it on the spot. >> >> Now here are the questions :D >> >> 1- How do you square off the walls? Do you slant the 2X4 inward in >> order to have a tight fit? >> 2- How do you put the roof on the top of the walls??? It's has to >> weight a LOT more than insulation panels! >> 3- Will the roof be strong enough for me to climb on the top of it in >> order to put the tar paper and shingles? >> >> I am sure that I will have more questions later, right now I will be >> looking for google sketchup plans to start with :D >> >> Oh and the hexayurt will be a permanent structure on my 40acres, >> sitting on a deck and at 3800ft of elevation so I also have to think >> of the snow weight! Metal roof anyone? >> >> Thanks!! -- Fabien > > -- > You received this message because you are subscribed to the Google Groups > "hexayurt" group. > To post to this group, send email to [email protected]. > To unsubscribe from this group, send email to > [email protected]. > For more options, visit this group at > http://groups.google.com/group/hexayurt?hl=en. > > -- -- Fabien (sent from my phone) [email protected] http://www.kempowa.com/PugetSound 425-985-8613 -- You received this message because you are subscribed to the Google Groups "hexayurt" group. To post to this group, send email to [email protected]. To unsubscribe from this group, send email to [email protected]. For more options, visit this group at http://groups.google.com/group/hexayurt?hl=en.
