I also use the metal tape to protect the bi-filament tape. I put the bi-filament tape on the joint first and then overlap the metal tape on each side. I end up with the metal tape being 1/2 on the bi-filament tape and 1/2 on the Hexayurt foil. this solves the problem of the crappy glue on the bi-filament tape. I then run a strip of metal tape down the middle of the bi-filament tape to totally protect it from the sun. Basically the only thing I use the bi-filament tape for is the strength, my glue and ultraviolet protection comes from the metal tape.
I use the same technique for my door hinges, although in 2012 I think I'll go more for the Danger Door to eliminate most of my door problems. Chasomatic On Nov 22, 10:01 am, Phil Dirt <[email protected]> wrote: > I think you could slow deterioration of your filament tape by adding a > protective layer of the silver tape described on the main hexayurt web > site. You might want to try WD-40 to clean off the tape residue. > > I used 12" x 24" sheet metal flashing bent to fit the top roof angle > (2) and the angle where the roof meets the side walls (4), then > anchored the yurt down with two ratcheting cargo straps. The flashing > braces distribute the strap tension over a wider area of the roof and > are also used to tie down the folded yurt package to the lumber rack > on my truck. The cargo straps make it easy to adjust tension on your > anchoring system and are attached to 2' rebar stakes set next to the > bottom of the wall. This eliminates the need for guy lines that will > inevitably trip somebody. The cargo straps and flashing are easy to > set up, cheaper than using a lot of tape to create tie-down anchors, > and are almost immune to deterioration. And serve a secondary purpose > as tie-downs on my lumber rack. > > I only use tape hinges for my ventilation ports. They don't work well > on the doorway. I bent sheet metal into three "U" shape pieces to fit > around the door opening and installed the door with metal hinges. The > sheet metal cladding protects the foam board from bumps and scrapes > that are inevitable for a doorway and also provide a sturdy surface to > mount the hinges. > > Bill > > On Nov 21, 4:07 pm, andreas <[email protected]> wrote: > > > Greetings all. > > Did my first yurt this past burn, H13, and it worked great. > > > However, after being out there for 20 days, by the time I got it home, > > the tape holding it together was practically flaking apart. > > The tape hinges *seem* secure, since they didn't get as much UV > > exposure, but the outer tape would basically de-laminate... outer > > layer would pull off leaving a puff of powdered adhesive and most of > > the fiberglass strands still suck loosely to the board. > > > My question is, do you think I ought to re-do all of the hinges before > > next year as well? > > As i said, they seemed fine as we were unfolding-refolding and washing > > it down, but I don't want to risk it if others have experience saying > > I shouldn't. > > > Also, my tape anchors were.... iffy... as well. They had a tendency > > to pull apart. > > > The tape I was using was this: > > http://www.goodbuyguys.com/catalog/index.php/cPath/22_200 > > > I realize I was out there a bit longer than most... but it does make > > me a bit nervous. > > > Secondly.... speaking of the tape residue left on the boards... do you > > think it's safe to just tape over it? or should I find some kind of > > solvent to try and remove it? > > > -Andreas -- You received this message because you are subscribed to the Google Groups "hexayurt" group. To post to this group, send email to [email protected]. To unsubscribe from this group, send email to [email protected]. For more options, visit this group at http://groups.google.com/group/hexayurt?hl=en.
