I use a very good kitchen knife that get's sharpened after several cuts! Less 
moop & toxic shit in the air!


On Jul 30, 2013, at 4:11 PM, Kevin Fischer wrote:

> I used a table saw for cuts on 2" board. If you don't have a proper vac 
> setup, make sure you are using N99 masks (or at least N95, per US government 
> recommendations) and vacuum with a HEPA filter vacuum. Vacuuming with a non 
> HEPA filter vacuum spreads microscopic dust particles everywhere.
> 
> 
> On Tue, Jul 30, 2013 at 8:14 AM, Steve Upstill <[email protected]> wrote:
> I was very concerned about using my hands to cut a straight line at a 
> consistent bevel angle, so I took the trouble to haul my table saw out to my 
> build site. I was glad I did. Set the blade at the correct angle, mark the 
> diagonal cuts and away you go. The edge bevels in particular are no-brainers, 
> since the fence can be set once (right next to the blade) for dozens of cuts.
> 
> For the diagonal cuts, you do need a steady hand and good eye to cut a 
> straight line 9' long in the middle of one of those panels. That's a 
> situation where it might be better to use a long-bladed jigsaw and a long (> 
> 9') straight piece of board, metal or angle-iron for a guide--the problem 
> being where to rest the panel and still give the saw clearance on the 
> underside.
> 
> Makes a pile of nasty poly-iso dust (DO NOT try to cut poly-iso edges 
> on-playa. There WILL be flyaways, to say nothing of the anguish of such work 
> in that situation), and isn't too kind to your saw blade (get a disposably 
> cheap one), but for sweet manufacture it's hard to beat. 
> 
> Cheers,
> Steve
> 
> On Jul 30, 2013, at 5:23 AM, Vladimir Khodel <[email protected]> wrote:
> 
>> Fine Homebuilding magazine had a reader tip a few years ago :) which was to 
>> take a 4" putty/taping knife and sharpen its outside curved edge - then you 
>> hold it like a kitchen knife and pull towards you along a guide such as 
>> bevelled at 60 degrees 2x4, and it cuts polyiso like butter in a couple of 
>> passes :)
>> 
>> This can probably be used even on the playa, since there is no moop at all 
>> (well, I guess there are polyiso bevels to get rid of)
>> 
>> When making sharp or rounded corners there is still some need for a snap-off 
>> type knife of course, but very minimal.
>> 
>> Good luck!
>> 
>> Vladimir
>> 
>> 
>> On Mon, Jul 29, 2013 at 8:53 PM, Jay Batson <[email protected]> wrote:
>> Hi -
>> 
>> Building my first HYurt, and have been reading all the right stuff / 
>> watching all the right videos (e.g. appropredia & Danger).
>> 
>> BUT - I'm puzzled about one thing: what kind of tool to cut with?
>> 
>> The only Rmax available in my region is the 2" stuff, and that seems pretty 
>> thick to cut through. I'd have thought to buy one of those utility knives 
>> with the retractable / extendable blades, but the only ones I see at Home 
>> Depot are the ones that have a tip-snapoff to give you a new sharp bit at 
>> the front, and I'm thinking those might just break when trying to cut a 
>> rounded door / window corner.
>> 
>> I'm also assuming that:
>> - A bigger knife might be too thick in trying to cut through the foam, and 
>> bind up when cutting;
>> - A drywall saw will take away too much material, nor will it make a nice 
>> clean cut.
>> 
>> So, what do people use for the 2" foam?
>> 
>> Call me curious.
>> -jb
>> 
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