Very cool! The longer you make it along the edge the more accurate things
will be, I am thinking 2 ft should work nicely.


On Mon, Apr 28, 2014 at 2:22 PM, Robert Atkins <[email protected]>wrote:

> I had in mind something like this. You'll have to excuse me as my
> photography skills are only slightly better than my 3D modelling skills
> (which are totally nonexistent.) Imagine the pice of cardboard I hold in my
> hand here is roughly the size of the piece of cardboard I'm holding in my
> hand—maybe a little bigger, the inside edges will need to be slightly more
> than 2" to cut 2" polyiso board. Also imagine the blade is around double
> the size of the one I'm actually using in the picture, whatever the size
> snap-off blade you'd usually use to cut polyiso board would be.
>
>
> <https://lh6.googleusercontent.com/-M-ojwkORdw0/U17E5qbZajI/AAAAAAAAALI/B-jOCZyqWN0/s1600/hexayurt_panel_cutter.jpeg>
> Also imagine there are two slots in the right-angle, one to set the blade
> to 30º and one to 60º. All you do is print one of these in your 3D printer,
> insert a blade, then pull it down the edge of your panel (as I'm
> illustrating on the edge of the table in the last photo there, don't tell
> the landlord.)
>
> You've just cut a perfectly beveled edge with almost no effort and no
> tools aside from a simple 3D-printed part and the blade you were going to
> use anyway.
>
> Can anyone who knows what they're doing model this and throw it up on
> Thingverse? Extra points for taking account of the non-90º angle at the
> point of the blade where it's seated and getting the correctly angled slots
> for doing 30º and 60º cuts into 1", 1.5" and 2.0" board.
>
> Cheers, Robert.
>
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