Yeah, they'd be pricey though ;-)
On Mon, Jun 2, 2014 at 8:00 AM, jeff harrison <[email protected]> wrote: > Any chance of getting matching shoes and a handbag? > > > On Saturday, May 31, 2014 1:55:26 PM UTC-4, BurnerDan wrote: >> >> I just wanted to show off my new skirt, door and matching windows! >> >> A few people have asked if we could make skirts and doors/windows for >> their yurts and yes - our only question now is, "How many?" And - yes, if >> you want to DIY, we can help there too. >> >> The design is clever (I think - but hey... I'm the designer...) in that >> it solves engineering problems in more or less artistic ways. >> >> The skirt smooths out installation, spreads the hold-down load, carries >> the caravan theme and personalizes the big silver box. You throw it over >> the completed, taped up yurt, align the corners and hook on cargo straps >> connected to stakes. Go around the yurt carefully tensioning the straps so >> they're all equal and all corners line up. Don't be silly and tension them >> so they over-stress a wall. The mechanical advantage means you can put a >> lot of force on a strap - but don't forget you're just dealing with foam >> boards! It's very nice because it makes it easy to get all the tensions >> equal >> >> I like the door design a lot because it basically clamps on a door frame >> inside and out, gently squeezing the foam board and providing a firmly >> anchored, sealable opening. The hinges are attached to both door and frame >> with machine screws threaded to tee-nuts embedded in the back side of the >> frame and door. This means it can go through an indefinite number of >> assembly/dis-assembly cycles. A variety of sealing systems are/can be >> used. I've put in a soft compressible edge to let the edge of the foam on >> the door mate to the foam panel surrounding the opening. I've also put in >> magnetic holders. >> >> Windows follow the same principal of clamping a frame. Glazing can be >> fixed or openable. >> >> The Funky Sultan look shown is just one notion. Anything you can cut out >> of plywood and varnish, stain, paint, upholster... will work. You can use >> thinnish plywood to save on shipping weight and size. I used 5/16". I >> placed 1/4-20 x 2.5" carriage bolts 4-6" apart around the periphery. I >> drilled through the foam to insure against damage to the foam by just >> pushing our pounding. I made a ton of somewhat flexible 2" diameter fender >> washer type things to spread out the load on the window frame and clamped >> down with a wing nut and regular steel washer. The inside of the door >> frame can also be clamped down with the same bolts and wing nuts, but since >> it's got all kinds of loads on it, it's got a full plywood frame on the >> inside too. I made it an inch smaller all the way around as part of the >> sealing system. Finally, I added a 1x4 on the bottom inside for the full >> width of the panel to beef up the threshold since that seems to be what >> gets broken first and most. Again, it has the carriage bolts and wing nuts. >> > -- > You received this message because you are subscribed to the Google Groups > "hexayurt" group. > To unsubscribe from this group and stop receiving emails from it, send an > email to [email protected]. > To post to this group, send email to [email protected]. > Visit this group at http://groups.google.com/group/hexayurt. > For more options, visit https://groups.google.com/d/optout. > -- You received this message because you are subscribed to the Google Groups "hexayurt" group. To unsubscribe from this group and stop receiving emails from it, send an email to [email protected]. To post to this group, send email to [email protected]. Visit this group at http://groups.google.com/group/hexayurt. For more options, visit https://groups.google.com/d/optout.
