Right... so imagine what's going to happen first - the R-Max caving
in/deforming/detaching tape to the wind or stressing to the rope which
starts acting like a large wire cheese-slicer... or the - even just 300#
"safe working load" rope breaking.  Not sure, but guessing that Home Depot
3/8" poly rope is already overkill in terms of breaking strength (although,
semi-technically, the main loop ought to be much heavier than the 6 leads
going to stakes).  Personally, I vote against the cheese-slicer effect by
preferring flat webbing and doubling the force spread to two spread out
webbings per stake.


On Tue, Jul 22, 2014 at 8:54 AM, Steve Upstill <[email protected]> wrote:

> I just went to Home Depot and bought the beefiest rope they had. That
> stretchy nylon stuff can be kind of a pain (adjusting straps), but it
> doesn’t make a huge difference.
>
> The REALLY important thing, if you’ve got a door with the hinge on top, is
> to have a piece of bungie and a rope loop on the door to hook the door to
> the halo so you don’t keep getting thwacked in the bum by the door. :-)
>
> Cheers,
> Steve
>
> On Jul 22, 2014, at 8:32 AM, rymar <[email protected]> wrote:
>
> Hey Steve,
> What type of rope do you think would be good? Thanks.
>
> On Monday, July 21, 2014 2:54:12 PM UTC-7, Steve Upstill (Swifty) wrote:
>>
>> Are you using a halo? A halo 70% of the circumference of your yurt
>> (6*8’*.70 or ~35’) should be plenty. Does anyone think 500# test wouldn’t
>> be sufficient?
>>
>> On Jul 21, 2014, at 1:47 PM, rymar <[email protected]> wrote:
>>
>> I'm using rachet tie down straps to connect to u shaped rebar but I'm not
>> sure what rope would be best and how big my radius should be around my H12?
>> Thanks in advance.
>>
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