Awesome work. Thanks for the info.
On Aug 5, 2014 9:50 AM, "Frank Heasley" <[email protected]> wrote:

> I also tested 3m strapping tape and 11mm heavy duty duct tape.
>
> The duct tape was pretty good.  Started to soften around 125oF.
>
> However, the strapping tape was superior.  It didn't soften at all,
> remained strongly bonded up to 130oF.
>
> Note:  these tests were very sloppy.  I used 1/2" polyurethane insulation,
> and applied the tapes to the foil side.  A more accurate test would be to
> attach weights to the tape, and then heat the bond while monitoring
> temperature until it slides off.  As I've decided not to build a yurt
> myself, I'll leave this for someone else who may be more interested.
>
> I didn't test any solvent based adhesives.
>
>
> On Tue, Aug 5, 2014 at 9:26 AM, Hunter <[email protected]> wrote:
>
>> Did you happen to get the melting point for red dap contact cement?
>>
>>
>> On Tue, Aug 5, 2014 at 9:07 AM, Frank Heasley <[email protected]>
>> wrote:
>>
>>> I just did a quick test on the HK velcro using a heat gun and infrared
>>> surface temp meter.  At 100oF, the adhesive melts.
>>>
>>> Note, however, that they also sell the same material without the
>>> adhesive backing, which would allow you to use a different kind of glue.
>>>
>>>
>>> On Tue, Aug 5, 2014 at 8:56 AM, Hunter <[email protected]> wrote:
>>>
>>>> We used contact cement to connect the vinyl to the Velcro. I second
>>>> using bidi tape for the permanent joints.
>>>> On Aug 5, 2014 8:49 AM, "Joshua Slocum" <[email protected]> wrote:
>>>>
>>>>> Yeah, there are several places on the internet that sell adhesive
>>>>> backed velcro. However from what I can tell, most of them don't fare so
>>>>> well against heat, so I'd be concerned about them coming off in a strong
>>>>> wind or during takedown.
>>>>>
>>>>> I'm still trying to figure out a mechanical solution.
>>>>>
>>>>>
>>>>> On Tue, Aug 5, 2014 at 11:42 AM, Frank Heasley <[email protected]>
>>>>> wrote:
>>>>>
>>>>>> You can get velcro that has a strong adhesive backing in 75mm wide
>>>>>> strips, from www.hobbyking.com (US Warehouse).  It's only $2.74 per
>>>>>> meter.  It is very strong, and grabs really well.
>>>>>>
>>>>>> Their US warehouse ships via USPS, and rather quickly.
>>>>>>
>>>>>>
>>>>>> On Tue, Aug 5, 2014 at 7:05 AM, Joshua Slocum <[email protected]>
>>>>>> wrote:
>>>>>>
>>>>>>> Some pics from our build-session on Sunday:
>>>>>>>
>>>>>>> https://drive.google.com/folderview?id=0B7krB_7bUPTNMmo4UUxrZ0I4REE&usp=sharing
>>>>>>>
>>>>>>> All the gluing is quite a bit of work, and velcro is expensive. As
>>>>>>> I've been building I've been thinking about how to make the whole 
>>>>>>> process
>>>>>>> easier and cheaper if anyone else decides to make one.
>>>>>>> - for velcro seams, use 4" wide velcro strips rather than sewing
>>>>>>> velcro to fabric - eliminates sewing time; costs slightly less.
>>>>>>> - use bi-filament tape for non-detachable seams. Just be sure to
>>>>>>> foil tape any exposed bf tape. Should cost a bit less, and be a bit 
>>>>>>> quicker
>>>>>>> than making seams with glue and fabric.
>>>>>>> - I also think using 8' of velcro on either side of the seam for
>>>>>>> anchors may have been overkill. If I were to make another one of these, 
>>>>>>> I'd
>>>>>>> probably use just half that amount.
>>>>>>>
>>>>>>>
>>>>>>> On Fri, Aug 1, 2014 at 4:15 PM, Joshua Slocum <[email protected]>
>>>>>>> wrote:
>>>>>>>
>>>>>>>> We just had our first gluing session on wednesday. This sunday
>>>>>>>> we're hoping to do the lion's share of the gluing. I'll be sure to take
>>>>>>>> some pictures.
>>>>>>>>
>>>>>>>> Sewing is nearly complete - only the anchors still need to be done.
>>>>>>>> They are long strips of cordura with velcro sewn on - one end 
>>>>>>>> terminates in
>>>>>>>> a webbing loop where tow straps can pass through and attach to playa
>>>>>>>> staples.
>>>>>>>>
>>>>>>>>
>>>>>>>> On Fri, Aug 1, 2014 at 4:07 PM, Austin Desautels <
>>>>>>>> [email protected]> wrote:
>>>>>>>>
>>>>>>>>> Josh, I'm attempting the very same thing, though I can't begin
>>>>>>>>> construction for another two weeks - would be great to hear/see how 
>>>>>>>>> it goes
>>>>>>>>> for you!
>>>>>>>>>
>>>>>>>>> -a
>>>>>>>>>
>>>>>>>>>
>>>>>>>>> On Wednesday, July 16, 2014 7:30:38 PM UTC+2, Joshua Slocum wrote:
>>>>>>>>>>
>>>>>>>>>> You've inspired me to build my own cordura/velcro yurt (H12). I'm
>>>>>>>>>> attempting to make it 100% reusable: no bi-filament tape.
>>>>>>>>>>
>>>>>>>>>> My plan is to make a semi-folding yurt, with hinges made out of
>>>>>>>>>> cordura and barge glue.
>>>>>>>>>> The seams on the dome and walls will be done with cordura +
>>>>>>>>>> velcro, similar to Alexander's design.
>>>>>>>>>> The tarp will be attached to the walls with velcro on the inside,
>>>>>>>>>> to keep dust and water out.
>>>>>>>>>> Tie-down straps will be made with cordura strips that attach to
>>>>>>>>>> the dome with velcro; the ends will have a sewn loop reinforced with 
>>>>>>>>>> nylon
>>>>>>>>>> webbing for standard tow-straps and playa staples to stake it down.
>>>>>>>>>>
>>>>>>>>>> I'll try to post build pics/updates as I'm going along, in case
>>>>>>>>>> anyone is interested or wants to replicate it later.
>>>>>>>>>>
>>>>>>>>>> Josh
>>>>>>>>>>
>>>>>>>>>> On Friday, March 7, 2014 10:25:32 AM UTC-5, Alexander Griffin
>>>>>>>>>> wrote:
>>>>>>>>>>>
>>>>>>>>>>>
>>>>>>>>>>>
>>>>>>>>>>> On Thursday, March 6, 2014 7:21:11 PM UTC-5, Robert Atkins wrote:
>>>>>>>>>>>>
>>>>>>>>>>>> On Wednesday, February 19, 2014 8:58:05 PM UTC+1, Alexander
>>>>>>>>>>>> Griffin wrote:
>>>>>>>>>>>> > Here's pictures of WolfYurt 2.0 -- my H12 standard hexayurt
>>>>>>>>>>>> made with velcro and cordura
>>>>>>>>>>>>
>>>>>>>>>>>> The way the roof cone "flaps" attach to the wall sections,
>>>>>>>>>>>> aren't you losing the structural integrity granted by having an 
>>>>>>>>>>>> unbroken
>>>>>>>>>>>> tension band going around the top of the walls? I thought this was
>>>>>>>>>>>> important.
>>>>>>>>>>>>
>>>>>>>>>>>
>>>>>>>>>>> I don't see why there needs to be a tension band at the top of
>>>>>>>>>>> the walls ("eaves").  The walls are held together firmly in a 
>>>>>>>>>>> circle by a
>>>>>>>>>>> combination of hinges and velcro seals. It is not going to expand 
>>>>>>>>>>> apart on
>>>>>>>>>>> its own any more than a fully taped yurt.   The roof cone itself is 
>>>>>>>>>>> held
>>>>>>>>>>> together with the same tension points as any traditional taped 
>>>>>>>>>>> yurt.  Can
>>>>>>>>>>> you explain to me why you think a constant ring of unbroken tape is 
>>>>>>>>>>> needed
>>>>>>>>>>> to keep a yurt erect?   I'm not saying you're wrong, I just don't 
>>>>>>>>>>> see why
>>>>>>>>>>> from an intuitive perspective or in practice.
>>>>>>>>>>>
>>>>>>>>>>>
>>>>>>>>>>>
>>>>>>>>>>>> You could get this back by sticking your Velcro hook tape
>>>>>>>>>>>> around the top of the wall panels and the bottom of the roof 
>>>>>>>>>>>> panels, then
>>>>>>>>>>>> having the loops sewn to one long ribbon of cordura that went all 
>>>>>>>>>>>> the way
>>>>>>>>>>>> around (and then stuck to itself at the end/start with another 
>>>>>>>>>>>> little patch
>>>>>>>>>>>> of hook and loop on the outside.)
>>>>>>>>>>>>
>>>>>>>>>>> I don't ever want velcro seals at the bottom of the roof cone.
>>>>>>>>>>>  If water runs down the roof it will get under the velcro seal and 
>>>>>>>>>>> then
>>>>>>>>>>> into the yurt.
>>>>>>>>>>>
>>>>>>>>>>>
>>>>>>>>>>>
>>>>>>>>>>>> Also, your roof folds into six separate "chunks"?
>>>>>>>>>>>>
>>>>>>>>>>>>
>>>>>>>>>>>> No, two separate sections.   Each section is made of six
>>>>>>>>>>> triangles, which include a combination of standard and bifolded 
>>>>>>>>>>> beveled
>>>>>>>>>>> hinges using BiDi tape.  There are only two velcro seams attaching 
>>>>>>>>>>> the roof
>>>>>>>>>>> cone sections to each other, as seen in blue in the photos.
>>>>>>>>>>>
>>>>>>>>>>>
>>>>>>>>>>> --Wolf
>>>>>>>>>>>
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