Even better: a paint roller (just the core; no roller required) on the end of 
an extension.

On Oct 30, 2014, at 3:14 PM, Joshua Keroes <[email protected]> wrote:

> For applying tape over the top, I use a window squeegee taped to a long 
> stick. Mine has a sponge side and a rubber side. The first is good for 
> de-dusting and the second is good for tamping the tape down.
> 
> Bonus: It'll even wash your car's window pre-Exodus. Weird, huh?
> 
> On Thu Oct 30 2014 at 2:56:15 PM Jay Batson <[email protected]> wrote:
> Similar notes (and a bit more) from me.
> 
> I had a similar tarp / rain experience. I had cut mine to the shape of the 
> yurt (about 4-6" bigger than the yurt footprint), and just left the yurt 
> sitting on it (initially). And, like you I started to get water intrusion on 
> Monday. Happily, because there was very little tarp to pull underneath the 
> yurt, I was abel to pull it in from under the yurt during the storm, and stem 
> the water.
> 
> Once everything dried, I debated how extensively to tape the tarp to the 
> inside. I ended up just tack-taping it mid-wall on each side (vs a full-on 
> ring of tape) to keep the tarp from sagging down, which worked just fine.
> Specifics: I put a 2" square piece of bi- tape at the midpoint on the walls, 
> as a surface to tape to and prevent the yurt foil from getting pulled off 
> during teardown. I didn't do anything to hold the tarp up at the wall 
> corners; the folding of the tarp material at those corners introduced enough 
> stiffness to hold the tarp up. This all worked fine.
> 
> I've concluded that standing up your yurt is best done in the morning hours 
> (6-8am). There is generally no (or, much less) wind then. (Speeds seems to 
> increase as the day proceeds.) Late-afternoon (5-6pm) is predictably the 
> windiest time, and the worst time to assemble.
> 
> This is my 2nd year with my yurt; I'd stored it with Phoenix between burns. 
> So I came prepared to do some on-playa yurt tape maintenance. I ended up 
> pulling off most of the tape that had been applied on top of other tape last 
> year - e.g. the roof ring, and the tape used to join the roof halves. Any 
> tape applied directly to the R-Max (e.g. hinges) seemed to have held up fine 
> (since it was squeaky-clean on initial application).
> 
> I also came prepared with a bunch of clean rags (from an auto parts store) to 
> wipe the dust off the ring / roof surfaces to get a good new tape bond. The 
> rags didn't collect enough dust; they left enough behind that I wasn't happy. 
>  So I crumpled up wads of Bi- tape, sticky-side-out, and ran them along the 
> tape target areas, which picked up the dust nicely. But can you say 
> "Expensive tack rag?" Next year, I'll try some of those masking-tape 
> lint-rollers (for clothes) to see if that takes the dust off better. (Anybody 
> have any better solution / idea?)
> 
> In re: door hinge, the tape hinge started to sag for me, too, last year. So I 
> brought some "strap hinges" from Home Depot, and bolted them directly to the 
> yurt with holes through the foam. I started with just one hinge on the upper 
> half of the door. (See photo below).  I put the 2nd one on the lower position 
> after a couple of days.  CAUTION: Getting the hinge pivot lines aligned 
> vertically is REALLY CRUCIAL. I don't think I got it perfect, which will 
> (over time) cause some wear on / expansion of the bolt holes. I think it'll 
> be ok for another year or two, but I probably eventually need to add plywood 
> like others do. (I'm trying to avoid / minimize ply, because of the bulk / 
> weight overall).
> 
> Swamp coolers rock. (Thanks, Figjam!)
> -jb
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> On Monday, October 27, 2014 7:35:29 PM UTC-4, Jason Rusoff wrote:
> A couple of things learned at this years burn.
> (snip) 
> 
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