Hi Seth,
What you will need is a wood that bends well without grain tear-out
and that provides a smooth surface without irregularities. There are
any number of woods that should work. There are books (I don't have
them at hand) that rate woods for bending and other properties. You
could use them to identify a wood you like that is sufficiently
bendable and relatively hand and strong. You'll also need to watch out
for oil content: there are any number of woods that might otherwise be
suitable, but which have a high oil content. Others can suggest
specific woods, but if you're going with a thin banding, I see no
reason the fruit woods wouldn't work. (A plum banding could be very
attractive.)
However, I'd be worried about your statement that you're going to band
it to a piece of cherry. Solid wood, even as a core, is going to give
you grief. If you want the look of cherry, you'd probably be better
off using a good quality ply for the core (for stability) and putting
on a cherry veneer over it.
In terms of thickness for the banding, you want it thin enough to bend
well and thick enough that you have some meat to work with as you true
the wheel. ~2 mm is probably good, depending on the wood, but there is
no reason you can't go a bit thicker or a little thinner if the wood
you are using for the banding will support it. The wheel in my current
instrument is banded with what appears to be 2 mm cherry. (I didn't
build it and the wood could be something else that looks similar.)
Best,
-Arle
On Dec 17, 2007, at 3:29 PM, Seth wrote:
While we are on the topic of making I need to ask a question....
Instead of making a plywood wheel as I did on my last one I'm going
to try the laminated method.... I've heard holly is good... Is their
any other woods that work well???? I'm going to be banding it to a
piece of cherry wood.. How thick should the band be...
http://s3.photobucket.com/albums/y59/texasbagpiper/?action=view¤t=DSCI0029.jpg
Also, How thick should the band be?????.... Thanks, Seth
Seth <[EMAIL PROTECTED]> wrote:
You might want to stay away from that one too .. I've not heard
anything good about the N.Sweet Hurdy Gurdies... I know it's
tempting since they are so cheap but you get what you pay for.. seth
Joe Mejia <[EMAIL PROTECTED]> wrote:
Arle et al.,
Thanks for the tips about the kit. I'll stay away from it.
I was looking at the Chinook, and also this one:http://larkinthemorning.com/product.asp_Q_pn_E_HUR002_A_Nouveau++Flat+Back+Hurdy+Gurdy+by+Nathan+Sweet_E_
.
I was hoping there might be something cheaper out there. I guess not
though, right? I suppose if the instrument isn't mass produced,
there aren't going to be low priced models. I'm coming from the
world of guitar. Years after I began playing, I now have some nice
guitars that cost quite a bit, but I started on one found at a
garage sale for just a few dollars. I was praying for a kind of deja
vu with the hurdy-gurdy.
I'm located in Chicago. I've seen people in the area play them
before, but I don't know them personally or anything like that.
- Joe
From: [EMAIL PROTECTED]
To: [email protected]
Subject: Re: [HG] Customizing a kit
Date: Mon, 17 Dec 2007 13:05:38 -0500
Joe,
On this list you will get few kind words about the kits. Let's just
say that they all have deficiencies that are especially problematic
when you do not yet know how to take care of problems. The Musikit
one is especially bad in many ways. While you can get a *playable*
instrument from them, you will spend large amounts of time (and need
access to tools and materials) to rectify its problems. With a kit
the best I think you can aspire to is an "OK" instrument, and that
only with a lot of work.
Starting the hurdy gurdy is a challenge as it is and having a bad/
mediocre instrument makes it that much harder. (I speak from
experience, unfortunately.) If you want relatively inexpensive, yet
good quality, consider ordering the Hackmans' Chinook model: http://www.hurdygurdy.com/products/chinook.htm
($1800)
Where are you located Joe? It might make sense to see if there are
any players in your area whom you could visit and learn from before
you decide what you want to do. Even with a kit, your time
investment is going to be substantial, so you should be sure you're
getting what you want. And if you're going to plunk down a minimum
of $1800 for an instrument, you'll really want to do your homework.
-Arle
On Dec 17, 2007, at 12:16 PM, Joe Mejia wrote:
Hello group,
My name is Joe and I'm brand new to the hurdy-gurdy. As a matter of
fact, I neither know how to play nor do I own a hurdy-gurdy. But I
am looking into fixing both of those problems soon.
I've been researching the instrument and watching this mailing list
for a little while and I've come to the conclusion that I want a
hurdy with a chromatic keyboard. I read that it opens up many more
options for playing music. I also want one that is affordable, since
I am but a poor college student trying to finish up school. The
latter part has been a real issue so far. This isn't a cheap hobby!
So, I found some kits on the internet in my price range, but the
problem is they have diatonic keyboards (Or tangents? What is the
correct term?). I was wondering, since I am somewhat handy at
tinkering, would it be possible to convert a diatonic kit, such as
the one found at musikit.com (http://www.musikit.com/Merchant2/merchant.mvc?Screen=CTGY&Category_Code=hurdy
), into a chromatic keyboard setup?
Thanks in advance,
- Joe
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