Hello Kathy, In answer to your question "where do you anchor the keybox" I use
a long wheel shaft, it runs up to a structure where the keybox ends. This
cross
structure is 5 mm short of touching the sound board, runs from side to side in
the body, is glued to both sides and back of the body. There are two 10 mm
holes in the sound board above this structure, the end block of the keybox has
two feet that run through these holes, two small screws and glue hold them in
place. the keybox floats so to speak approx. 4 to 5 mm above the sound board,
allowing the sound board to vibrate freely. I also add on the underside of the
sound board, on each side a question mark shaped piece of bent wood (plywood
will not carry the sound) that runs from where the bridge rests, around the
wheel slot, then up both sides of the keybox, firmly glued in place, this
carries the sound from the bridge through the entire sound board as well as
stiffening the sound board somewhat. There is a Dutch luthie
r that also builds this way, his gurdys are very nice and not to expensive.
Please see: www.jaap-milder.nl
-------------- Original message ----------------------
From: "Kathy Hutchins" <[EMAIL PROTECTED]>
> From: [EMAIL PROTECTED]
>
> > Its the grumpy old man again, I have a very good machinist
> > who uses drill rod in the requested size, and turns the shaft
> > between centers, for, the amazing sum of five dollars!
> > I request a least a 90 percent thread and get it every time.
> > If you require his services send me a drawing and I get back
> > to you asap.
>
> OK, thanks. John has already glued the soundboard down, so it may be too
> late to make some of these changes. But if a truer rod would improve things
> without extending the shaft to the head side of the wheel hole, I could
> certainly see investing five bucks. I am going to pass all this info on to
> John in any case.
>
> > As for roller bearing, don't, they make all kinds of noise, just look
> > for
> > the Teflon bearing sleeves at a Lowes or Home Depot they work fine.
>
> The kit actually came with nylon bushings -- I think this is a change from
> the set-up Alden/Cali described, which sounded like the shaft just ran
> through wood. It would be a simple enough matter to change these out if the
> Teflon is better. Someone else recommended delrin.
>
> > I have issues with both the wheel assembly and key-box resting on or
> > connecting to the sound board, and build so that neither touch the
> > sound board.
>
> Where do you anchor the keybox then?
>
> Kathy Hutchins
> [EMAIL PROTECTED]
>
