At 02:05 PM 02/20/03 -0500, Barbara Burt wrote:
. . .Frequent, frantic pulling and shaking of slides loosens their fit and looks awful. The standard solution to this problem is remote controlled, string operated water keys, added at critical points depending on the wrap of the horn. Then you can surreptitiously empty the condensate whenever you get a couple beats of rest. Simply blow into the horn while stopping it with the right hand and operating the strings with the left. This topic was discussed extensively in the late '90's on the Spock horn list, whose archives you might look up. Following is an updated edition of my message posted Jan. 4, 1999.
In a recent concert with my woodwind quintet, it took way too long to seek out and empty the spit between movements. This not only made me feel self-conscious but also annoyed my fellow players, who were anxious to keep the musical momentum going! . . .
The first step is to analyze your specific horn's wrap thoroughly to understand just where the water collects, often primarily in the Bb key slides, particularly the third. Add water keys and strings, and stir. On my own horn I run a single string connected at each end to a different spit valve, so both can be operated with a single pull on the string. I made the string have an apex up in the left finger area, choosing routing appropriate to the specific horn construction, and bridge the apex off two appropriate braces or tube bends. (I fashioned one bridge point from a bent paper clip attached to the thumb valve pivot.) A finger pulling on this apex bridge string then provides automatic equalization to open both water keys fully. I run this apex bridge through a short length of small-diameter plastic tubing to provide a cushion for the finger (a bare string digs in). I use a tension adjusting gadget fashioned from plastic, working just like the tension adjusters on tent ropes. This also allows for easy detachment and re-attachment.
Lever water keys can be used as well as Amado piston types. In fact, they give you an extra dimension of choice in routing the string, as you can choose to mount them with the lever to the left or right of the hole. It is important to choose
routing that allows the string pull on slide keys to be nearly perpendicular to the direction of slide movement, or you'll be constantly
de-tuning yourself. In practical use, I have to blow several times (with a stopped horn) to expel all the water, and it makes an audible hiss. Since this is usually done during horn rests, which usually occur in quiet passages, it can be a problem. However, this is somewhat muffled by my use of "spit sponge" napkins, and an audience some feet away will probably not hear it. Instead of a prolonged blast, it is best to have repeated puffs with moments between for the unexpelled water to settle back into the low point.
On my horn (Alexander 103) I have three water keys stringed. (Note: All of the following depends on using the "Famous Maneuver" to drain valves 1 & 2 into the third valve slides beforehand.) One string circuit runs between the main F tuning slide key and the Bb third valve slide key. Pulling on this with my index finger while depressing the thumb and third valve empties the third Bb valve slide, and depressing nothing while pulling empties the F tuning slide. The leadpipe drain key is on a separate string which I actuate with my thumb (no cushioning sleeve needed - single key). This leaves the F slides to be emptied. They actually collect minimal water, and at the end of a movement, after emptying all other points, I simply do a reverse of the "Famous Maneuver" to empty the F key slides back into the main F tuning slide, where it can be emptied from that water key.
Happy plumbing, JIm.
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