INSANE - INSANE - INSANE - are we living in the Stone Ages or Middle Ages ??? Why not wrapping the whole horn with plastic tape, best of blue or red or yellow colour, so the horn�s surface will not be damaged by fingerprints & will never need any polishing. There will never occur the bad effect of lacquer, influencing the sound.
Furthermore the branches would not get lose so easily. If the lead pipe is bent due to dropping, just bent it back. As the plastic tapes cover the horn, it would not get leak so fast, even if the lead pipe is broken. And due to the plastic tape, the broken branches will not be lost. The other advantage will be for the right hand: no special washing ever, as the bell inside is also covered by plastic tape. It also prevents all the little dents. The black colour often found in the bell of an old hunting horn or baroque horn could be explained as residue of the old (under developed) tape of that time. After the removal of the tape, the glue remained attached to the bell. But this is of minor importance, as a new plastic tape is attached quickly. And you have a vast choice of colours, which is a further advantage. Just have a look in the store. But no guarantee for a pure horn sound. The horn will rather sound like toilet action or "body gas escape". If it does not matter, well, go ahead with your repair. ========================================================= -----Original Message----- From: [EMAIL PROTECTED] [mailto:[EMAIL PROTECTED] On Behalf Of william bamberg Sent: Monday, May 03, 2004 6:25 PM To: [EMAIL PROTECTED] Subject: Re: [Hornlist] how much is too much (dents) Long flat spots can do some funny things. Just pushing the dents out of the way is usually pretty safe. Leadpipes can present more complicated problems. Again, just pushing out the dent and leaving a few wrinkles is the safest course. A common leadpipe problem for school horns is to have the leadpipe bent double just where it enters the guard tubing. Rather than go poking around trying to bend it straight and distorting the taper, I usually cut the pipe at the crimp. With both ends exposed, I can see the taper. Either I can repair the ends and butt them, or I can splice in a short length of another leadpipe. For most horns, butting works well, inside a short length of tubing. Should the student drop the horn again, it will let go at the solder joint, and is simple to repair. If the break is right at the end of the guard, I can usually machine a shallow socket under the guard, and the solder joint is invisible, but will break off clean if broken again. J. Kosta wrote on 5/2/2004, 12:09 PM: > I recall reading an article saying that dents that reduce the > cross-section > area of a tube by less than 33%, usually do not cause problems. > > With one of my horns, reducing a smallish leadpipe depression seemed to > make a noticeable improvement. On another horn, fixing a similar leadpipe > depression did not seem to make any difference. > > If your horn has consistent 'bad notes' (with for example intonation or > sound quality), then perhaps fixing dents might help. > > Jay Kosta > Endwell NY USA > > _______________________________________________ > post: [EMAIL PROTECTED] > set your options at > http://music.memphis.edu/mailman/options/horn/billbamberg%40aol.com > _______________________________________________ post: [EMAIL PROTECTED] set your options at http://music.memphis.edu/mailman/options/horn/hans.pizka%40t-online.de _______________________________________________ post: [EMAIL PROTECTED] set your options at http://music.memphis.edu/mailman/options/horn/archive%40jab.org
