Since my last posting on this subject, I have changed my mind about 
continuing this thread and thought it might be helpful to take   a different 
approach 
to this discussion in the possibility that some information   might help some 
players be more discerning about what   might have to be done to restore a 
badly damaged horn and knowing what to avoid when purchasing a used instrument.
 
With the instrument that was   the center of this discussion, the horn has, 
from the original sellers description, been trashed as far as the bell is 
concerned.
His   pictures show that the mouthpipe has been bent and his write up leaves 
to our imagination the condition of the valves and slides.
I always have a questioning reaction to an e-bay sellers description "all of 
the slides and valves move freely" in a write up.
Are the slides and valves moving freely because they work well ?   Or because 
the slides are loose and the valves are worn and need to be rebuilt?

Here   are some brief descriptions of what might be done to correct some of 
the problems with the horn.
I say brief because it would be too difficult and too time consuming to go 
into great detail about the details of such work.

If the slides need to be tightened, then do they need to be expanded in order 
to be   tightened ? and if so, how much?
This expansion can alter the inside bore of much of the cylindrical section 
of an instrument and can cause the instrument's response to be stuffy feeling..
Would it be better to replace and refit the loose slide tubing ? and if so, 
can it be done with tubing of the compatable weight, thickness, metal density, 
and bore size?
This is one reason some repair techs. buy old instruments. There is always 
the possibility, for example, that an old beat up Kruspe single F horn will 
have 
some unworn usauble parts on it -like the 3rd valve slide tubes.

To adequately straigthen the mouthpipe, is it necessary to remove the outer 
protective sleeve and replace it with a new one-or an undamaged one from a like 
instrument?
Can the mouthpipe be straigthened   in a way that retains the original 
taper?-or can that taper be recreated if necessary? Has the mouthpipes ventura 
or 
the negative taper for the mouthpiece been altered ? Is it possible to correct 
these and return them to the original specifications?
The stress created from the mouthpipe being bent must also be removed from 
the mouthpipe and the horn.
Of course, it is always possible to replace the mouthpipe with another 
Elkhart pipe in excellent condition, if one is available -or to use a new UMI 
Conn 
mouthpipe.
If a UMI mouthpipe is installed, should it still be represented as an Elkhart 
8D? or should a write up state that the original   mouthpipe was replaced?

The dents in the bell tail could be removed and smoothed out.   Then the bell 
could be cut and rings    installed and a new bell flare added.
This could be done with a new UMI flare, any aftermarket flare, a chinese 
flare, or an original flare in excellent condition from another Elkhart 8D ( 
very 
difficult to find in excellent or even good condition in my experience).
If this were done, I would as a buyer expect to be informed as to what kind 
of a flare had been installed.

The valves can be completely rebuilt -or the rotors replaced with new rotors.
To completely rebuild the valves would require first smoothing the insides of 
the casing walls . Often this part of the procedure is left out and can lead 
to premature wear and the need for more valve work.   Next, it is necessary to 
plate the original rotors with copper and nickel to build up the fit and then 
finally, hand lap them to the desired fitting ,so that the valve clearance 
within the casing is the same for the entire length of the rotor and for each 
valve. Attention must also be paid to making sure that the bearings are also 
refitted so they have no play.
 Valves rarely show the same amount of wear within an individual horn, so the 
amount of plating and fitting each valve needs must be observed and 
addressed.   Some players like the final air seal to be very tight and some do 
not. 
When I was apprenticing with Geyer, he always wanted just a very little air 
leakage   in the valves to help create a nice legato feel to the horn and   to 
help 
create what he called "the Gravy" in the sound.
In today's horn world, this concept of slightly leaky valves   can be a cont
roversial subject.

Removing dents and the smoothing of the metal and refinishing it for   
lacquering, all too frequently, is accomplished by   sanding the metal smooth 
after 
the dents have been basically removed.
This can leads to thin spots and uneveness in the metal wall thickness which 
can affect the response in various areas of the overtone patterns.
There are dent machines available, and in use, that help smooth out even the 
worst of dents and
leave a very nice looking result in a short period of time, however much 
damage to the metal intergrity and the horn's ability to respond easily or 
resonate well can be compromised if this technique is applied without very 
skillful 
use of the machine, combined   with susbequent annealing, if necessary.
Buffing prior to lacquering can   also be done lightly, so as not to remove 
much metal during the process, but often this is not the case.

Can all of these processes be done carefully and with good quality results?
The answer is- certainly. This depends, of course, on the condition of the 
instrument to begin with.
Unfortunately there are not many shops that can, or choose to do these 
proceedures correctly due to either their time involvement in the overhaul 
ratio, or 
due to lack of expertise in the various processes involved.

Fortunately for our horn community, there are several competent horn 
craftsmen in the country who have the necessary skills, combined with the 
integrity, 
to do these procedures well and acheive the desired   high quality results.
Being in close personal contact with most of these individuals ( yes, we do 
share ideas and experience with each other) who have these capabilities, 
affords me with the knowledge that
they are definitely not the kind of people who need to, or who would ever, 
misrepresent the nature of the work necessary to achieve a high quality 
overhaul.
As a performer or as a horn craftsman, I would much rather have someone tell 
me or have to say to a client, 
"this horn was a real mess but we (or I) were, with a lot of work, able to 
restore and save it" rather than "it was an exceptionally well cared for horn" 
Paul Navarro
Custom horn
_______________________________________________
post: [email protected]
unsubscribe or set options at 
http://music.memphis.edu/mailman/options/horn/archive%40jab.org

Reply via email to