> > I was using hetman light rotor oil for the top, al cass for down the slides, > and very little stp oil treatment for the slides. The rotors didnt slow > down until I reoiled them about 5 days after I got the horn back from the > repairman. To oil it, I usually put oil into the slides, push them the > whole way in, and invert the horn.
There's always a bit of grease that collects at the end of the slide even if you wipe it away regularly, and there will almost certainly be a bit of grease on the inside of the valve tubing just beyond the furthest insertion point of the slides. I suggest that your method will cause the oil to dissolve any of this grease it comes into contact with as it drops down towards the valves, and so thicken and gum up the valves. Instead, what I do when oiling the rotors is to remove the slides altogether. Then hold the horn so that the open ends of the slides are vertical. Position the dropper in turn above the centre of each open tube and drop a single drop of oil down each one, so that it drops on to the rotor directly without ever touching the sides of the tubing. Operate the valves to spread the oil across the rotors, then replace the slides. I suspect that avoiding grease contamination is more important for keeping the valves operating freely than the brand of oil you use. Regards Jonathan West _______________________________________________ post: horn@music.memphis.edu unsubscribe or set options at http://music2.memphis.edu/mailman/options/horn/archive%40jab.org
