Hi Rodney,

if you want to shoot a partial panorama of a landscape with higher
resolution you could try even without a tripod. I often do that when I'm
hiking. Just try to get about 30% overlap. It's a good idea to shoot the
upper (sky) row in a way so that you still have some real landscape at
the bottom of those frames.
I often use a 60mm lens on my D300 which works great.

For gigapixel photography you don't need to turn the lens about it's NPP
so just a simple L-bracket should be enough (you get more of the sky
area in your final image when shooting in portrait orientation.

icysubdweller wrote:
> Noob question:  Let's say you've got a pano head with nice detents,
> and using a medium telephoto lens you can shoot a sequence of pictures
> that are evenly spaced at 10 degrees around on the horizontal and 15
> degrees on the vertical.
> 
> You could shoot a nice 3- or 4-row pano, and it's possible the top row
> would be nothing but clouds and sky, with no reliable control points.

You can either use the fast preview in hugin to manually set the
position of such frames or just type in the values for y, p and r in he
.pto file or in hugin. enblend should do the rest for the sky portions.

> How do you stitch this?  Is there some way to use the knowledge that
> the images are repeatably 10-degrees separated horizontally and 15-
> degrees vertically, to enable a decent stitching with nona?  With some
> other tool suite?  Does this info actually get used by the CP
> generator, or would it usually be fed into the stitcher directly?
> What's a common name for this feature that would let me find which
> tool suites support it?
> 
> Obviously, I'm considering buying a pano head... but I want to know
> what I get for the expenditure!

Do you have a tripod?

Carl

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