Hi, I am also not an expert, but I do a different approach. I usually do 3 to 5 auto bracketing with the camera using a tripod or a pole. When I use the tripod I don't need to align the images. Using the pole, as the structure sometimes has some instability, mainly when it is windy, I align images.
The different approach I meant is that I usually don't do this in hugin. I align and fuse images before making the pano and it gives me good results. My align command is really simple: align_image_stack -a file1- IMG01.JPG IMG02.JPG IMG03.JPG and it gives me the aligned files file1-0000.tif file1-0001.tif file1-0002.tif, which then I fuse with enfuse: enfuse -o file1.jpg --compression=95 file1-* I usually make little scripts for the whole job. I make this scripts each time in vi (a unix text editor), which makes the job relatively easy, so I didn't take the time to make a generic script yet. Then I use the fused images into hugin to make the panos. I usually use 10 to 20 images, depending on the lens I have used. Cheers, Carlos E G Carvalho (Cartola) http://cartola.org/360 http://www.panoforum.com.br/ 2012/11/18 TvE <[email protected]> > Here's a recap of my workflow. I need to test it some more, but so far it > seems to work: > > - shoot ~10 tiles for a spherical pano, total of ~30 images with 3x > bracketing (10.5mm, full-frame fisheye, 6 tiles around, 2x-3x up, 2x down) > - pre-process to increase sharpness and local contrast (wide > unsharp-mask) > - load all images into hugin > - select each bracket group in images tab, make new stack, run > align-image-stack -f %v -e -v -p %o -i -c 1 -g 2 %i > - select all images in images tab, unlink positions > - select "best" image in each stack and run cpfind+celeste to get the > tiles to align > - run optimizer in incremental from anchor mode > - check control points table for worst fit and fiddle with control > points, re-run optimizer with "everything without translation", > repeat... > - I often take a nadir shot from a slightly moved position so I don't > have shadows in the same spot, to align those images I set them to use a > different lens, which offers a few more degrees of freedom and I make sure > control points are only set in the small area I need from those shots > - mask tripod/feet out of shots in the mask tab, use "exclude region > from stack" > - run exposure optimization using HDR, var white bal, fixed exposure > - fiddle with view in the fast preview > - calculate optimal FOV in stitching tab > - stitch using exposure fused from any arrangement to jpeg Q-90 > - adjust final histogram and colors in regular photo editor > - phew! > > If you have suggestions or corrections, I'd love to hear. Getting this far > has taken many hours of fiddling with hugin. One thing I don't know is > whether setting the EV in hugin makes a difference when using the exposure > fusing, I believe not. > > -- > You received this message because you are subscribed to the Google Groups > "Hugin and other free panoramic software" group. > A list of frequently asked questions is available at: > http://wiki.panotools.org/Hugin_FAQ > To post to this group, send email to [email protected] > To unsubscribe from this group, send email to > [email protected] > For more options, visit this group at > http://groups.google.com/group/hugin-ptx > -- You received this message because you are subscribed to the Google Groups "Hugin and other free panoramic software" group. A list of frequently asked questions is available at: http://wiki.panotools.org/Hugin_FAQ To post to this group, send email to [email protected] To unsubscribe from this group, send email to [email protected] For more options, visit this group at http://groups.google.com/group/hugin-ptx
