On Sat, 2 Feb 2019 04:57:38 -0800 (PST), Bob Hanson wrote: > I am a semi-professional photographer based in Chicago who is having a > difficult time getting my photos to stick together properly, with a visible > seam or two in my photos. I've tried many times to adjust the parallax point > on my nodal ninja and no matter what I do, I cannot make a photo without a > seam. I do a fair amount of traveling to NY/NJ/TX/WI/MN/GA/MO/TN, as well as > up to Toronto, Ottawa and Montreal. > > I am looking for someone who can meet me at a *public* place and help > validate my settings, as well as that I am using the software correctly. My > issue is one or both of these problems. When I see seams in Hugin, I try to > add control points but it doesn't seem to do anything. I am willing to pay > for this service; I just need help. > > Look at the triangle window and the ceiling in the attached file and you'll > see what I mean. Please help.
I'm not in Chicago...but... The right hand triangular window shows a seam, but it doesn't look so much like alignment problems as it does focus or problems near the edge of the lens. The triangular window on the left does show alignment errors, as does the ceiling to the right of that window and the ceiling fan and the chair below it. How much overlap did you use between images? My experience with panoramas with close-in elements (where even small parallax errors are problematic) is that the more overlap the better. I'd estimate that it's not uncommon to have 80% overlap between the frames I use. The more overlap, the less effect any residual parallax errors or lens distortion will have. It does mean that processing will take longer, but I've found (after doing a few hundred of them over the years) that it does help reduce stitch errors. Finally, with control points, I find it works best to delete control points that are close by and try to get ones on the most distant objects in the scene. Any parallax errors will be magnified close in, and if you force Hugin to map image based on those, everything else will be off. And similarly, I avoid using control points close to the edge/corners of the frame, because lens distortions beyond what Hugin can correct for will similarly introduce errors. I seldom use a tripod, and don't have a panorama head (I normally shoot panoramas outdoors, but not necessarily only distant landscapes), but I can uusually get a good stitch. Also, if you haven't already done so, you might want to try using multiblend rather than enblend. -- Robert Krawitz <[email protected]> *** MIT Engineers A Proud Tradition http://mitathletics.com *** Member of the League for Programming Freedom -- http://ProgFree.org Project lead for Gutenprint -- http://gimp-print.sourceforge.net "Linux doesn't dictate how I work, I dictate how Linux works." --Eric Crampton -- A list of frequently asked questions is available at: http://wiki.panotools.org/Hugin_FAQ --- You received this message because you are subscribed to the Google Groups "hugin and other free panoramic software" group. To unsubscribe from this group and stop receiving emails from it, send an email to [email protected]. To view this discussion on the web visit https://groups.google.com/d/msgid/hugin-ptx/20190202154117.1512D1418D3%40localhost. For more options, visit https://groups.google.com/d/optout.
